SOLE REVIVAL
The man at the heart of Tokyo’s bespoke shoemaking comeback
Excellent bespoke shoemakers in Japan are not hard to come by, but one needs patience to procure a pair. It can take at least six months from commission to completion of a pair, and even lesser known shops have a list of waiting clients. After all, says Yamaguchi Chihiro, one of the most well lauded bespoke shoemakers in Tokyo today, the apex of monozukuri (the making of things) in Japan is handmade.
In 1991,Yamaguchi became the first Japanese to gain membership in the prestigious Guild of Master Craftsmen in the United Kingdom. He, like many of his peers, travelled to Europe to learn traditional shoemaking techniques, almost as a rite of passage. “There, the handmade shoes I encountered struck me. The measuring of the foot, sculpting of the wood, sharpening of the tools, twisting of the yarn, shaping of the leather — all of these techniques were pursued to the degree of perfection,” says Yamaguchi.
After training in Europe,Yamaguchi returned to a Japan that was reeling from an economic bubble, with citizens unable to afford the luxury of bespoke shoes. He then worked as an independent shoe designer for a couple of years. It was during this time that he researched ways to design the last in a way that would suit Japanese feet. “I took the courage to develop an original model that did not adhere to the classical form,” says Yamaguchi. The design has since proven to be a success not only in Japan but also in Hong Kong and France.
“Japanese clients expect great attention to be paid to the most delicate details”
Following Japan’s economic recovery, Yamaguchi established his own workshop, Guild of Crafts, in 1996. Another challenge faced artisans: during the Second World War, the country had relinquished the tradition of handmade shoemaking in favour of mass production. And yet, Yamaguchi and his peers knew the desire for personalised, handmade things remained. “The deep admiration and respect that the Japanese have for artisans was not lost,” says Yamaguchi. To reinvigorate the industry, he established Saruwaka Foot College, which teaches the hand-sewn welt technique that Guild of Crafts practises.
In teaching shoemaking, Yamaguchi highlights the dual role of artist and craftsman. The main audience of the shoe is ultimately the client, and artisans work tirelessly to create the perfect fit. He adds that Japanese clients expect great attention to be paid to the most delicate details. Out of the numerous procedures, measuring the client’s feet and creating the last are the two most fundamental steps in the making of a good shoe.
Thirty-eight years of bespoke shoemaking have also taught Yamaguchi that what people assume to be comfortable changes with habit. “For those who have been used to mass-produced shoes, even if you were to find a pair of shoes that truly fits your feet, you wouldn’t realize that immediately. For example, if you are used to loose-fitting shoes, a well-fitted pair of shoes might seem tight,” he says. Creating the right fit requires both due diligence and artistic expression — something that the most discerning Japanese clientele have learned to entrust only to a handful artisans, including Yamaguchi.
Yamaguchi highlights the dual role of artist and craftsman