Out of Africa
SHEENA KHEMANEY charts a course for the land of deserts, deltas and dramatically diverse wildlife by way of Chaumet’s latest high-jewellery collection
SINCE ITS INCEPTION in 1780, Chaumet has created some of the world’s most exquisite jewels, tiaras and timepieces, for everyone from royalty to aristocracy to Hollywood celebrities.
So, naturally, I was looking forward to the renowned Parisian maison’s latest highjewellery collection. When I had the chance to view the stunning pieces at the brand’s Place Vendôme headquarters during Haute Couture Week, I wasn’t the least surprised to learn that several of the pieces had already been sold.
Trésors d’Afrique is the third chapter of Les Mondes de Chaumet High Jewellery collection (the first two being the Russia-influenced Promenades Impériales and the Japan-themed Chant du Printemps), divided into five parts, each inspired by aspects of African culture.
Ronde de Pierres features vibrant pieces referencing the colourful Nilotic parures worn by the Maasai and Dinka people of Sudan.
The black, white and green necklace, earrings and rings of Cascades Royales have been designed to resemble the ornaments worn by Samburu brides of Kenya and the graphic headdresses of the queens of Rwanda (to create this particular set, Chaumet used its signature fils couteau technique).
The blood-red rubies and yellow sapphires of Terres d’Or are a reinterpretation of Kasai velvets
CASCADES ROYALES IS INSPIRED BY ORNAMENTS WORN BY SAMBURU BRIDES AND RWANDAN QUEENS
and the motifs of kente fabrics from Ghana.
Espiègleries is a series of six animal-inspired brooches (one can even be worn as earrings) designed in collaboration with Kenyan artist Evans Mbugua. Also in this collection are six watch models – two jumping-hour Complications Créatives and four flying tourbillons.
Lastly, Talismania is comprised of cufflinks and rings featuring ebony, hard stones, onyx and gemstones (the stones are cut as sugarloaf cabochons) referencing the source of traditional African art and ornaments.
Highlights of the Trésors d’Afrique collection include the stunning Ronde de Pierres necklace in white gold set with a cushion-cut, 10.14-carat blue sapphire from Ceylon, round black spinels, brilliant-cut diamonds and beads of Mandarin garnets, sapphires, red spinels and emeralds. Equally impressive are the Cascades Royales earrings in white and yellow gold, set with two vivid green cushion-cut emeralds from Colombia, onyx and marquise-cut diamonds; and the Terres d’Or ring in white and yellow gold, set with an oval-cut yellow sapphire of 12.36 carats from Ceylon, round yellow sapphires, lacquer and brilliant-cut diamonds.
Like Chaumet’s other timeless creations, these one-of-a-kind sparklers are sure to be the centre of attention with any outfit. At the end of the Trésors d’Afrique viewing, I wasn’t able to name a favourite because, truth be told, there were too many marvellous pieces to choose from.