Circle of Life

Since 1984, the Tatler Dining Guide has been a publication that celebrates the very best of dining in Hong Kong—not only the chefs, restaurateurs, sommeliers and more that make up the culinary scene, but the people and themes that make this city all the more special. Beginning in 2022, we have tasked local artistic talents to give us their interpretation of what the city’s gastronomy means to them. This year, bornand-bred Hongkonger Kinchoi Lam illustrates what was the centre of culinary life for him while growing up.

The Work:

The Round Dining Table My mother said that a round dining table represents togetherness, so even though our home is not spacious, she has always insisted on using a large round table when we have meals together. There are four people in my family: my father, mother, older brother and me. As we grew up, my brother and I moved out one after another, and now our family only eats together once or twice a week. Every time I come home for a meal, I take pictures of the dishes, thinking that one day I will learn how to cook them. The food depicted in this drawing represents my mother’s signature dishes and slowcooked soups, which were the flavours I often missed while studying in the UK.

When did you decide to become an illustrator?

In 2016, I ventured into creative endeavours using illustrations and text. At that time, Hong Kong had a limited number of local picture books available. I believed it was crucial for children to have diverse perspectives on their own locality, and picture books served as an excellent medium for that purpose. Thus, I embarked on creating my first book through a process of avid reading and self-study. Fortunately, the book won the first prize in a Chinese writing award that year and was subsequently published. Its success has motivated me to continue my creative journey until this day.

What is your connection to Hong Kong?

Having grown up and been educated in Hong Kong, this city has provided me with invaluable opportunities, including creative inspiration and diverse life experiences. Hong Kong has always been a place where I feel a sense of security and belonging. Here, I have the freedom to wander aimlessly through its streets, engage in artistic pursuits such as drawing, and have meaningful conversations with people, all of which fuel my creative inspiration. Additionally, Hong Kong’s culinary scene offers a delightful array of international cuisines, an experience that sets it apart from other cities I have lived in.

If you could only eat one Hong Kong snack forever, what would it be?

Siu mai! I love the fish and meat siu mai from street stalls. It’s cheap, convenient and delicious. The chewy texture, combined with the seasoning of soy sauce and chilli oil, is the perfect remedy for hunger while out on the streets. I only eat this snack when I’m really in need, so each time I have it, it leaves a deep impression.