Tatler Dining Guide - Hong Kong

Culinary Renegades

Three chefs with moxie

- By Don Mendoza, Charmaine Mok and Kyoko Nakayama

TO SAY that the face of fine dining has changed over the last decade is to state the obvious, but to presume that it has merely shed its once-stuffy dispositio­n for a more informal invitation to wine and dine would be a greater understate­ment. The concept of haute cuisine continues to evolve in embracing a wider, more progressiv­e gamut of gourmet experience­s, making room for a new generation of culinary cowboys and providing a refreshing shift away from the mainstream.

This is especially evident in Asia’s culinary capitals, from the sunny island-state of Singapore to the bustling gastronomi­c plains of Tokyo. However, don’t think these are just revised invitation­s to lick your plate or listen to ocean sounds during your seafood course. If anything, while a maturing market of food lovers appears more receptive towards uniquely immersive encounters, it seems to be outgrowing blatant gimmicks. Rather, a discerning breed of patrons is savouring the attention to detail on those oft-overlooked essentials that go into delivering a memorable meal. It’s an area that top restaurate­urs are reinvestin­g in—from a reimaginin­g of perfect service to making insects a welcome fraction of an inspired restaurant menu.

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