Tatler Dining Guide - Hong Kong
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Each year, the T.Dining panel discusses its top picks for 20 of the most representative restaurants that contribute something truly exceptional to the local dining scene. Here are the results
1 MODERN EUROPEAN Amber
The Landmark Mandarin Oriental’s flagship restaurant, helmed by chef Richard Ekkebus, makes a solid return to this year’s list. After a nail-biting hiatus—during which time many a food pundit made their guesses as to how the newly reformed Amber would be different—the team unveiled a fresh new look and rejigged menu that arched a few eyebrows. Limiting and often eliminating the use of gluten and dairy in all of the dishes, Ekkebus sought to rewrite the rules of fine dining and has succeeded in creating a new kind of journey for Hong Kong’s jaded diners. We’re particularly impressed by the flavour profiles that pay sensitive tribute to local traditions, whether it’s the homemade silky tofu or the pairing of cold-brew teas with the tasting menu. 7/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road Central, Central, Hong Kong
2 MODERN EUROPEAN Neighborhood
If only every neighbourhood had a restaurant like Neighborhood. The premise is unabashedly simple—a single-pager of no-nonsense food, ranging from premium charcuterie and cheeses to hearty, pre-order sharing dishes, and a small but thoughtful selection of wines. The venue is small and intimate, with raucous laughter often reverberating across the room, and you’ll often spot chef-owner David Lai propping up the bar in his signature white tee and a glass of wine. Despite being a proponent of quality local produce— especially seafood—Lai’s menu is a globe-skittering rollercoaster of inspirations and provenance. We loved the simple preparation of Japanese tomatoes, thickly sliced and paired with peaches, over which a dusting of salted plum powder brought out their natural sweetness. A soupe de poisson, rich and hearty, had the surprising hum of aged mandarin peel to give it character. With food like this, there’s always reason to come by as often as you can afford to.
61 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong
3 Caprice FRENCH
Delivering first-class hospitality in one of the grandest dining rooms in Hong Kong—it’s no wonder that Caprice has continued to stay top of mind when it comes to the best dining experiences in the city. In a time where haute cuisine is changing its DNA, a place like Caprice showcases how luxury can progress in innovative ways. Chef Guillaume Galliot is a master of flavour pairings, so you might find the wild zing of mango tamed into delicious sweetness by roasting, before being matched with meaty turbot and buttery sea urchin; elsewhere, a sweet langoustine swims in a rich tomato consommé. Throw in one of the finest wine and cheese cellars, plus desserts by award-winning pastry chef Vivien Sonzogni, and you have all the reasons why Caprice yet again comes out on top.
6/F, Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, 8 Finance Street, Central, Hong Kong
4 Ronin JAPANESE
Ronin is a restaurant of contrasts; it’s the kind of place you come to when you want to be surprised, but also reassured. It’s a fashionable spot that exudes a timeless cool, with a nonchalant design aesthetic that dabbles in minimalism. The food is serious, but the vibe is far from it. The menu changes daily, anchored by whatever the freshest catches of the day from local and Japanese waters are.
This emphasis on freestyling it based on what’s available pervades a large part of the menu, though the classics—flower crab with uni, Kagoshima beef sukiyaki—always remain. The vibrant flavour combinations read like a Japanese food dictionary (Akkeshi oyster, mizuna harumaki, mandarin tosazu) and there’s always some fun new creation to savour. After all this time, Ronin continues to make a statement.
G/F, 8 On Wo Lane, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong
So Shellfish
Ronin’s flower crab with mitsuba and uni is one of its most recognisable dishes—but there is also much more to discover