Tatler Dining Guide - Hong Kong

Gonpachi

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HK$400 per person

This moody izakaya is as reliable as ever, bringing consistent­ly great food to the table along with a seasonally rotating menu of regional Japanese specialiti­es and sake. The menu is designed to be inclusive, with many of the major categories covered—small appetisers along with sashimi and sushi open the selection, followed by charcoal-grilled skewers, tempura, hotpot and housemade soba. Dishes that lead with fresh produce are our recommenda­tions; the Nagano tomato topped with thin strands of dried Ariake seaweed is a lesson in umami and we love the crunch of tiny cucumbers, stacked in a Jenga-like arrangemen­t with layers of miso paste. Thinly sliced seasonal whitefish, arranged beautifull­y on a plate, is nicely paired with seaweed, skinny chives and a piquant vinegar sauce that you should use sparingly. Do not leave Gonpachi without a serving of the soba, made daily using stone-ground buckwheat (you can see the mortar on the way into the restaurant)—and let staff know if you would like to share with your dining companions, as they are happy to divide the portions accordingl­y.

4/F, Lee Garden One, 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong

TEL: +852 2787 3688 gonpachi.com.hk

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