Tatler Dining Guide - Hong Kong
Gonpachi
HK$400 per person
This moody izakaya is as reliable as ever, bringing consistently great food to the table along with a seasonally rotating menu of regional Japanese specialities and sake. The menu is designed to be inclusive, with many of the major categories covered—small appetisers along with sashimi and sushi open the selection, followed by charcoal-grilled skewers, tempura, hotpot and housemade soba. Dishes that lead with fresh produce are our recommendations; the Nagano tomato topped with thin strands of dried Ariake seaweed is a lesson in umami and we love the crunch of tiny cucumbers, stacked in a Jenga-like arrangement with layers of miso paste. Thinly sliced seasonal whitefish, arranged beautifully on a plate, is nicely paired with seaweed, skinny chives and a piquant vinegar sauce that you should use sparingly. Do not leave Gonpachi without a serving of the soba, made daily using stone-ground buckwheat (you can see the mortar on the way into the restaurant)—and let staff know if you would like to share with your dining companions, as they are happy to divide the portions accordingly.
4/F, Lee Garden One, 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong
TEL: +852 2787 3688 gonpachi.com.hk