RE­VIEWS

T.Dining by Hong Kong Tatler - - Contents -

Over 220 up­dated re­views of Hong Kong and Ma­cau’s best restau­rants and bars, as rated by our panel of din­ing ex­perts

The story of Am­ber is one that is con­stantly be­ing rewrit­ten. Fol­low­ing a menu shake-up in which sev­eral long-term sig­na­ture dishes were shown the exit, we have had time to ex­am­ine and ap­pre­ci­ate culi­nary di­rec­tor Richard Ekke­bus’ new point of view. French at its heart but with a firm foot­ing in the bounty of fresh, sea­sonal pro­duce af­forded by Hong Kong’s prox­im­ity to Ja­pan, Am­ber’s dishes are a seam­less, genre-de­fy­ing col­lec­tive of in­ven­tive flavour com­bi­na­tions. The menu feels tighter than ever be­fore, with eight dishes on the a la carte; the de­gus­ta­tion re­mains both the bet­ter value and more en­tic­ing of the menus. Am­ber is the kind of restau­rant that en­cour­ages in­dul­gence of the high­est or­der— where sweet lan­gous­tine and Schrenki caviar are lay­ered over petals of sea urchin, but where beauty can also be found in the direc­tion of wagyu beef dusted with dried red onion skin and sea­weed pow­der, to thrilling ef­fect. The ser­vice is smooth as silk, with staff an­tic­i­pat­ing your next move with ca­sual con­fi­dence. Trust in the wine se­lec­tions by head som­me­lier John Chan, who has brought piz­zazz as well as pres­tige to the list, which of­fers in­trigu­ing se­lec­tions by the glass. Am­ber is due to un­dergo ren­o­va­tion by mid-2018, and we will be ex­cited to see its next chap­ter.

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