Tatler Dining Guide - Hong Kong

FRANTZéN’S KITCHEN

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This small pocket of Sweden in the quieter end of Sheung Wan is the site of some of the most exciting gastronomy to come out in Hong Kong in recent years. It is expected—after all, Frantzén’s Kitchen is the spin-off of chef Björn Frantzén’s much lauded eponymous restaurant in Stockholm, and chef Jim Löfdahl has done his mentor proud. The diminutive space means it’s a bit of a tight fit, and you can be certain to knock elbows with fellow diners if you opt for the counter seats—but it’s worth it, to witness the final preparatio­ns that go into highly stylised dishes such as the “Swedish sushi”, a tranche of crispy white moss topped with fallow deer, ceps mayonnaise, andnd shavings of frozen foie gras. The servings can sometimes be comically small—l—it’s best you treat the majority of the menu as small plates—but the techniqueq­ue and precision put into crafting them almost justifies the high pricing. Seekeek out the well informed staff for a second opinion on how to build your meal, and trust in them to parlay the more obscure ingredient­ss and flavours into a more approachab­le vernacular.

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