Tatler Dining Guide - Hong Kong

HAKU

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If you’re the sort to turn a nose up at shopping mall restaurant­s, then more fool you—a place like Haku, which is nestled into one of Hong Kong’s busiest retail monoliths, is right up there wwith the best of the city’s fine diningdini destinatio­ns. But make no mistake,mist for this is not a quiet, reverentia­l temple of gastronomy. ThThe food is taken seriously, but theth atmosphere is far more fun than what would be expected—and it’s the kind of place whwhere patrons can feel just as comfortabl­e ordering a glass oof Hitachino white ale as they would a top-end Burgundy. Chef Agustin Balbi sees to maintainin­g that convivial vibe, tending to just over a dozen diners perched at the chef’s counter (make sure to request these seats when booking), serving a thrilling line-up of dishes featuring the best of Japanese produce. The result is a procession of good looking plates that are worthy of both the palate and the Instagram feed, such as the chef’s interpreta­tion of Kagoshima A4 wagyu—here finished off in front of the guest over billowing charcoal smoke before being cut into neat triangles and vibrantly coloured seasonal vegetables. A top place where the precise yet innovative cooking will stay with you.

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