VEA

T.Dining by Hong Kong Tatler - - The New Gastronomy -

Few restau­rants are as fas­ci­nat­ing as VEA, where chef Vicky Cheng’s high-end gas­tron­omy melds with a re­spect for Hong Kong’s local, sea­sonal in­gre­di­ents and food tra­di­tions. Pair that with an in­trigu­ing cock­tail pair­ing pro­gramme by An­to­nio Lai, and the din­ing ex­pe­ri­ence is rather spe­cial. Cheng’s Hong Kong and Shang­hainese up­bring­ing has cre­ated highly orig­i­nal homage to fa­mil­iar dishes such as Can­tonese ‘white cut’ chicken; the chef chooses prized local yel­low chicken for the dish, which is fash­ioned into a con­tem­po­rary ren­di­tion paired with a scin­til­lat­ing scallion and ginger oil and a side of poached Chi­nese cab­bage draped with sheer Iberico pork lardo. A read of the menu will re­veal a global outlook, with in­gre­di­ents rang­ing from lon­gan (to add sweet­ness to raw shima aji) to cordy­ceps (fea­tured in Cheng’s sig­na­ture roasted sea cu­cum­ber dish). We find some of the cock­tail pair­ings on the su­gary side, so if a touch of sweet­ness is not your jam, we rec­om­mend the more tra­di­tional wine pair­ing op­tion in­stead. The ser­vice is ex­pertly judged, tick­ing along like clock­work. There is at­ten­tion to de­tail ev­ery­where, from the com­fort­able curve of the bar seats that al­low you to sit back and re­lax, to the rec­tan­gle of fab­ric for your phone to rest upon.

Vea’s curved chef’s ta­ble al­lows full view of the ac­tion

Serge Et Le Phoque’s lo­ca­tion in the heart of Wan Chai’s wet mar­ket is a telling rep­re­sen­ta­tion

of how the restau­rant shakes up the idea of fine

din­ing

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