22 Ships was the first Hong Kong venture for much-heralded British chef Jason Atherton, opening back in 2012—and it is still going strong today, with a modern tapas menu that continues to offer plenty of gastronomic sparks. This small buzzy spot on Ship Street is dominated by a central U-shaped open bar; its high stool seating is cramped and uncomfortable, whilst the restaurant’s open frontage makes it a rather sweaty evening too, but the food is strong enough to overlook minor discomfort for an hour or two. The portions may be small, but the flavours are spot on; dishes such as scallop ceviche with yuzu and Chinese radish and a dessert of strawberry, toasted marshmallow and Chantilly cream are vibrant mini concertos of cleverlycontrasting flavours and textures— each element is masterfully executed, with extra brownie points for beautiful presentation The wine list features an array of Spanish sherries alongside more familiar reds and whites, all with comprehensive tasting notes. Service is efficient although somewhat brusque and lacking in warmth. Five years since its opening, 22 Ships delivers ample proof why it has outlasted the hype—its tapas for the 21st century continues to be exciting, innovative and downright delicious.
22 Ships is not your average tapas joint
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