22 SHIPS

T.Dining by Hong Kong Tatler - - Scene -

22 Ships was the first Hong Kong ven­ture for much-her­alded Bri­tish chef Ja­son Ather­ton, open­ing back in 2012—and it is still go­ing strong to­day, with a mod­ern tapas menu that con­tin­ues to of­fer plenty of gas­tro­nomic sparks. This small buzzy spot on Ship Street is dom­i­nated by a cen­tral U-shaped open bar; its high stool seat­ing is cramped and un­com­fort­able, whilst the restau­rant’s open frontage makes it a rather sweaty evening too, but the food is strong enough to over­look mi­nor dis­com­fort for an hour or two. The por­tions may be small, but the flavours are spot on; dishes such as scal­lop ce­viche with yuzu and Chi­nese radish and a dessert of straw­berry, toasted marsh­mal­low and Chan­tilly cream are vi­brant mini con­cer­tos of clev­er­ly­con­trast­ing flavours and tex­tures— each el­e­ment is mas­ter­fully ex­e­cuted, with ex­tra brownie points for beau­ti­ful pre­sen­ta­tion The wine list fea­tures an ar­ray of Span­ish sher­ries along­side more fa­mil­iar reds and whites, all with com­pre­hen­sive tast­ing notes. Ser­vice is ef­fi­cient although some­what brusque and lack­ing in warmth. Five years since its open­ing, 22 Ships de­liv­ers am­ple proof why it has out­lasted the hype—its tapas for the 21st cen­tury con­tin­ues to be ex­cit­ing, in­no­va­tive and down­right de­li­cious.

22 Ships is not your av­er­age tapas joint

Cap­tur­ing the vi­va­cious flair of a Span­ish bodega,

Ham & Sherry boasts a 50-strong sherry list, the largest in town

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