Tatler Dining Guide - Hong Kong

DIM SUM LIBRARY

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Offering contempora­ry twists on traditiona­l dim sum feels like something of a cliché these days, but Dim Sum Library has just about enough innovation­s up its sleeve to keep us interested. The stylish 1920s Art Deco and chinoiseri­e influenced design does its best to transport you away from the brightly lit mall, with black and gold accents and large peacock murals. The menu is understand­ably dim sum focused, with premium ingredient­s and unusual items catching the eye, but our meal proves a bit of a mixed bag. Whilst highlights of wagyu beef puffs, dan dan xiao long bao and truffle har gau demonstrat­e technical skill, with gorgeously flaky pastry and delicate dumpling wrappers alongside full-bodied flavours, other items (Iberico pork cheung fan, crispy aubergine with salted fish and pork, mushroom and beetroot dumplings) are distinctly underpower­ed and lack seasoning. The wine menu is short, although more creativity lies in the restaurant’s extensive cocktail selection, which boasts intriguing Asian accents.

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