SUM­MER PALACE

T.Dining by Hong Kong Tatler - - High-End Chinese -

Drip­ping with op­u­lent fea­tures in red and gold, there’s no mis­tak­ing that Sum­mer Palace, the Chi­nese restau­rant at the Is­land Shangri-la, is a fine din­ing es­tab­lish­ment. It doesn’t just go on looks though—the kitchen show­cases true mas­tery of clas­sic Can­tonese cui­sine. Ex­pect the likes of ten­der, juicy char siu, still warm from the oven, and crispy chicken that is just as ad­ver­tised, with fault­less skin the colour of dark caramel. Dishes such as deep-fried shrimp toast are a de­li­cious throw­back that could do with­out the west­ern­ised touch of black truf­fle. The chilled sago cream with mango juice and pomelo is one of the creami­est we’ve ever tasted. Sur­pris­ingly for a restau­rant of this cal­i­bre, ser­vice can be patchy, es­pe­cially when it comes to wine, although the wine list it­self has a de­cent ge­o­graph­i­cal range. For oenophiles with deep pock­ets, there is a spe­cial se­lec­tion by Robert Parker of 98-100-point wines, and din­ers can re­quest the list from the ho­tel’s fine din­ing French restau­rant, Petrus. How­ever, de­spite the ex­cel­lent wines it would have been nice to also see a pre­mium tea se­lec­tion to go with the re­fined

dishes.

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