PETRUS

In Hong Kong’s fast and fickle dining scene, it’s easy to overlook the classics, the places that have been serving exemplary food for years. Among these is Restaurant Petrus, a hushed, tiered and chandeliered fine diner with crisp white tablecloths, damask upholstery, and stunning views of Victoria Harbour. It’s new chef de cuisine Ricardo Chaneton’s assured cooking, however, that deserves real attention. Live blue lobster is gently poached so the tail remains springy and succulent. Roasted Aveyron lamb rack arrives a perfect shade of pink, a thin layer of fat adding indulgent depth of flavour to the tender meat. Here, premium ingredients and deft technique are more important than fashion or trickery so that plump and briny Daniel Sorlut La Speciale oysters are served natural with lemon or on a refreshing granny smith apple, cucumber and lime jelly. The signature and surprise menus are great value, with the same premium ingredients used as on the à la carte menu. The extensive wine list is recognised as among Hong Kong’s best, including dozens of vintages of the namesake Petrus, and use of a Coravin dispensing system allows for fine and rare wines to be sold by the glass. Service is attentive, if a bit formal, and expected of this institution.

Gaddi’s dining room may be traditional, but the cuisine is contemporary At Petrus, premium ingredients and deft technique are more important than fashion or trickery