Tatler Dining Guide - Hong Kong

UMI

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Umi, which means “ocean” in Japanese, is a small, sushi-only restaurant located diagonally across from Man Mo Temple on Hollywood Road in Sheung Wan. It serves primarily omakase, a multicours­e menu utilising the freshest and most appropriat­e ingredient­s of the chef’s choice. One of the key elements in such an experience is the personalit­y of the chef, and it is a delicate balance. Too serious and the experience is sombre and overly earnest. Too talkative, and it is merely intrusive. Umi strikes the perfect balance, with the affable chef Yukio Kimijima offering just enough knowledge about the seasonal ingredient­s on offer; but also knowing when to recede into the background and let the experience speak for itself. It’s worth it to replace the toro maki with a Hokkaido uni roll at the end of the meal, as it’s not only the more ecological choice, but also the tastier one. The dessert is often a mochi wrapped around seasonal fruit, the best being the large hothouse grape; paired with a homemade piece of French chocolate mixed with bitter matcha. So put your trust in chef Kimijima, sit back, and enjoy the intricate, delicate feast.

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