ON DINING

In a city traditionally dominated by fine dining venues in hotels, it is always pleasing to see a restaurant succeed outside those confines—and such is the case with On Dining. Helmed by chef Philippe Orrico, the menu here is upscale contemporary French with some Mediterranean flourishes, as epitomised by what has become the restaurant’s signature roasted pigeon; on our visit, the meat is pink and tender, accompanied with a richly fullbodied jus, cherry confit and baby aubergine that really augment the bird’s gamey flavour. Starters and desserts, including an outstanding layered chocolate cake, are also impressive but however full you are, any visit to On is incomplete without a sweep of their cheese selection, which features many varieties rarely found elsewhere in Hong Kong. (Tip: visit on Friday for the freshest selection of fromage.) The extensive wine list is also noteworthy, and includes one of the widest selections of boutique champagne labels in the city. In fact, On’s glossy, largely monochromatic décor is probably the most unmemorable thing about a visit here; nevertheless, it is content to let the food do the talking which, although a little pricey, it does in pretty spectacular style.