Tatler Dining Guide - Hong Kong

AMBROSIA

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Located on the 28th floor of a shopping mall, Ambrosia may have striking views of Victoria Harbour but the décor leans towards the dated and slightly garish. But taste the food, and you’ll want to instantly plan your next visit. Oysters are Ambrosia’s forte, and an order of four no.1 size mollusks from Ireland, France, Spain and South Africa—though varieties extend to New Zealand, Australia and the USA too—attests to that. Served with a knowledgea­ble introducti­on by the staff, on a bed of shaved ice only adorned with a slice of lemon, each bivalve is flawlessly shucked and beautifull­y fresh, the flavours and textures ranging from salty and smooth to sweet and plump. Pan-fried Cornish crab cakes with an accompanyi­ng honey mustard dressing and salmon roe are the perfect follow-up to offset their brininess. A bouillabai­sse is marked as a signature dish, and rightfully so—the fish and light tomato broth make for a stew so aromatic we end up wiping the entire plate clean. To accompany the seafood is an impressive wine list or, should you be so inclined, a good selection of affordable cocktails. Service is expert and attentive—one more reason to glance over the not-soimpressi­ve ambience, and lure you back time and again.

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