Tatler Dining Guide - Hong Kong
KANIZEN
Tucked away down a lessertraversed Wan Chai street, this stylishly appointed restaurant is dedicated to the art of enjoying crabs in their many permutations. Two tanks of Taraba, Horsehair and Matsuba crabs greet diners, and it is these crustaceans, flown in fresh from Japan three times a week, that grace the tables later. Set menus dominate with a mixed crab set, uni and crab set, or Taraba-focused set on offer, each including crab prepared as sashimi, tempura, shabu shabu, congee and more. It is the quality of the sweet and juicy Taraba crabs and the more distinctly flavoured Horsehair crabs that shines—while generous toppings of rich, buttery sea urchin as part of the uni and crab set go down a treat, too. We enjoyed the delectably runny yolk of egg tempura in one bite before the refined flavour of the horsehair crab it tops. Another highlight is the Taraba crab leg sashimi with uni and bright, briny caviar, which offers a triumvirate of complementary flavours and textures. The service deserves recognition—not a moment goes by without a fresh plate, a hot towel or a tea and sake top-up. For a satiating and superior crab dinner, this is high on our list. Make sure to bring an appetite, as the set menus are substantial.