Tatler Dining Guide - Hong Kong

LAI HEEN

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Dramatic interiors and plush furnishing­s lends the Ritz-Carlton’s flagship Chinese restaurant a certain level of grandeur that leaves a real impression. A subtle water feature lines the walkway leading into the restaurant, which is decorated in shades of inky blue and black—a marked departure from the more classic combinatio­n of red and gold. Chef Bill Fu’s menu is a wonderful read of Cantonese dishes modified and reimagined through a contempora­ry lens; his signature pork belly with preserved vegetables is a superlativ­e rendition of a heavy Hakka dish, here fashioned into a modish plateful with delicate slabs of pork, plus different textures of preserved mustard greens. The wine list is sizeable and staff are able to make educated pairings for the table. Service can be overly keen at times, but this is a small niggle—staff are clearly enthusiast­ic about the cooking here, and it’s worth your while to take their recommenda­tions.

 ??  ?? Lai Heen’s dramatic interiors are perfect for special occasions
Lai Heen’s dramatic interiors are perfect for special occasions

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