Tatler Dining Guide - Hong Kong
LAI HEEN
Dramatic interiors and plush furnishings lends the Ritz-Carlton’s flagship Chinese restaurant a certain level of grandeur that leaves a real impression. A subtle water feature lines the walkway leading into the restaurant, which is decorated in shades of inky blue and black—a marked departure from the more classic combination of red and gold. Chef Bill Fu’s menu is a wonderful read of Cantonese dishes modified and reimagined through a contemporary lens; his signature pork belly with preserved vegetables is a superlative rendition of a heavy Hakka dish, here fashioned into a modish plateful with delicate slabs of pork, plus different textures of preserved mustard greens. The wine list is sizeable and staff are able to make educated pairings for the table. Service can be overly keen at times, but this is a small niggle—staff are clearly enthusiastic about the cooking here, and it’s worth your while to take their recommendations.