Tatler Dining Guide - Hong Kong
JADE DRAGON
City of Dreams’ Jade Dragon is home to chef Tam Kwok-fung’s iconic Cantonese cuisine. A master of the repertoire, chef Tam demonstrates a high level of expertise that translates into the establishment’s abundant range of high-end Chinese dishes. Among the highlights are lychee woodroasted goose or barbecue Iberico pork collar, each executed with immaculate form and presentation that delivers the full spectrum of satisfaction, from colour to aroma, taste to texture. Crispy suckling pig stuffed with shrimp is superbly rendered, too. Aside from the meats, seafood reigns supreme at Jade Dragon, showing the extent of chef Tam’s expertise in handling the best ingredients in the world; this is best exemplified in his deep-fried Fine de Claire oysters, with an ethereally light batter. Individually portioned steamed garoupa fillet on egg white with aged huadiao wine sauce is a masterclass in controlling heat and time, where the tender fish is just cooked through, sitting atop softly-set egg white custard. The service team is attentive and detail-oriented, and service is prompt but not intrusive.