Bidding time

From a titanium Patek Philippe to a Vantablack watch designed by artist Anish Kapoor, the one-of-a-kind timepieces up for grabs at the annual Christie’s-hosted Only Watch auction are stuff horological dreams are made of. David Graver lists some of the best ones on show

Barbier-Mueller ‘MOSAIQUE’

A one-off prototype model, Barbier-Mueller’s “MOSAIQUE” draws its visual identity from a decorative, 136-part, coloured jasper mosaic. The caseback cover — which includes a small, platinum disk at its centre and a continuation of the mosaic — lifts to reveal aF P Journe calibre 1304 movement. Between its technical elements and the artistry found on the dial, caseback and deployment clasp, many hours went into this piece’s production. Estimate: $115,000 to $208,000

Patek Philippe Reference 5208T-010

Rarely does one find a self-winding mechanism in an ultra-complicated watch featuring a minute repeater, an instantaneous perpetual calendar and a mono pusher chronograph. Here, Patek Philippe has done it — and, for the fist time, in titanium, making this a one-of-akind reference. From the blue hand-guilloched carbon-fibre dial to the sapphire-crystal display back, aesthetic nuance defines the piece. Winning the lot also means a visit to the brand’s workshop and a private lunch with Patek’s president, Thierry Stern. Estimates: $932,000 to $1,139,000

Breguet Classique Quantième Perpéturel en Ligne

One of the most elegant lots in the auction, Breguet’s Classique 7715 sports a silvered gold dial that’s been hand-engraved on a proprietary rose engine. Subdials and windows align in a vertical fashion, with patterning switching off with a polished finish. The self-winding perpetual calendar movement can be viewed through a sapphire crystal display back. An experience also accompanies the winning bid for the watch, including a private guided tour of Breguet’s Manufacture in Vallée de Joux, Switzerland. Estimate: $83,000 to $103,000

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Only Watch

The first Audemars Piguet timepiece to pair a black ceramic case with a sapphire crystal display back, this reference features many modifications to the beloved Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar. Aesthetic developments include the “skylight” blue Grande Tapisserie dial, with sold grey gold counters, and the orange and blue “photorealistic” moon phase. Estimate: $83,000 to $124,000