Business Standard

Handbags speak louder than words

A Chanel or Louis Vuitton might set you back by a few lakh rupees, but class doesn’t come cheap

- NAMRATA KOHLI

What’s in a (brand) name? Well, lots. The instantly recognisab­le CC lock of Chanel, the GG monogram of Gucci or the signature equestrian form of a Ralph Lauren bag — each defines the owner as much as the brand it symbolises.

Luxury bags can be quite exquisite and expensive too, with some costing a few lakh rupees. Take the 2.55 flap bag, Chanel’s most iconic piece to date. What makes it coveted? Brand representa­tive Deepam Sinha explains that this is the first hands-free bag ever made and a symbol of women’s liberty, pioneered by Mademoisel­le Coco Chanel. In post World WAR-II France, when ideas of liberty and equality were gaining ground, this was the first-ever design created to help women break free, because earlier, they were mostly behind men. Mademoisel­le had designed it in February, the second month of the year 1955, which explains the name 2.55. Priced at ~4.5 lakh, the bag is made of lambskin and caviar leather, both top quality materials that can withstand water- and heat-induced damage.

Another “code” of Chanel, Sinha adds, is the trademark quilting of the brand. Mademoisel­le, who was into horse riding, drew inspiratio­n from the quilting in the saddle and replicated it on to the purse.

It is these stories of antiquity, legacy and finesse that hold sway on the high net worth buyer, though the associatio­n of a piece with a celebrated owner is also a strong factor. For instance, the Lady Dior Bag was popularise­d by Lady Diana, who carried it religiousl­y to practicall­y every event she attended.

Bestseller­s in India: Among ultra-luxury bags, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Chanel, Hermes, Dior, Jimmy Choo and Bottega Veneta are the most sought after, in that order, says the spokespers­on of Luxepolis.com, an online luxury marketplac­e in India. These, he adds, are followed by “affordable luxury” branded bags such as Michael Kors, Burberry, Coach, Tory Burch, DKNY.

Any brand typically has totes, clutches and crossbody handbags, but there are certain bestseller­s within each category. The Jimmy Choo Pumps with gold glitters, Michael Kors Jet Set totes, Chanel’s classic

double- and single-flap bags, and the knot clutches of Bottega Veneta are very popular. Many of these brands never go on sale, and new collection­s are added, albeit in limited edition. Chanel recently launched its teal collection while Ralph Lauren launched the RL50 handbag, conceived on the brand’s 50th anniversar­y.

According to a Ralph Lauren company spokespers­on, “With its belted body and curved topline, RL50 comes in four sizes of mini, medium, large and oversized and a variety of supple materials, including calfskin, snakeskin, alligator and ostrich. There’s a smorgasbor­d of colours available, too, because Lauren, who celebrated five decades in fashion last year, knows what a woman wants — and what she needs.”

What’s trending

Many of these luxury bags are handcrafte­d. For Hermes Birkins, artisans take 48 hours to create a single bag, while it takes twelve hours just to stitch Ralph Lauren creations. Sometimes it’s a matter of craftsmans­hip, and at others, it’s about the heritage that makes it a collector’s item. “We create a romance with the past with our bags,” says Haresh Mirpuri, founder Aranyani, whose hand-painted and handembroi­dered bags are made of Italian leather and imbued with classical Indian motifs such as Kesuda.

With the festive season around the corner, most offline and online retailers say that Diwali and Christmas are big sale triggers. Hence the period starting from October 10 and ending in the first week of January is significan­t. Glitter and gold clutches move fast during this season, says the store manager of a London-based premium bag brand. Otherwise, shoulder bags are back in vogue. Totes are always preferred and one of the top-selling bag categories. Pastel colours are in demand. Solids and monograms are evergreens.

“Both over-sized and mini bags are trending,” says Kapur of Hidesign. He feels that while people love carrying large travel or work bags, micro bags have become highly popular as they make suitable accessorie­s to the handbag. The world is moving towards unisex shapes that are more casual. Tan is the staple colour.

There is heightened interest in small sling bags that allow you to be hands-free when you lead an active, on-the-go life. From casual and formal day bags to party bags, these small bags work for all kinds of occasions. In the large-bag category, people prefer tech-friendly products that can store just about everything — mobile phones, ipads, wallets, car keys, make-up kit, a small bottle of water, napkins, hair brush, face swipes and sunglasses.

 ??  ?? ( Above-left) Known as “wallet on chain”, this Chanel Classic is good for keeping minimal stuff. Price: ~1.83 lakh.
( Above-left) Known as “wallet on chain”, this Chanel Classic is good for keeping minimal stuff. Price: ~1.83 lakh.
 ??  ?? ( Above-right) This bag by home-grown brand Aranyani is made from pure Italian leather. The gilding work has been done by a family in Udaipur.
( Above-right) This bag by home-grown brand Aranyani is made from pure Italian leather. The gilding work has been done by a family in Udaipur.
 ??  ?? ( Left) The Ralph Lauren snake skin handbag, part of the RL50 collection, fuses equestrian details and leather craftmansh­ip
( Left) The Ralph Lauren snake skin handbag, part of the RL50 collection, fuses equestrian details and leather craftmansh­ip

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