POWDER PLAN
For the winter of 2017, Steve White presents a range of interesting seasonal Asian escapes to consider
Asia’s best slopes for some winter fun
In a continent strewn with balmy tropical isles, the typical “powder” escape means hitting a beach to savour talc-soft sand between your toes. But winter brings an alternative bounty of white gold to the mountains of North and Central Asia. From as early as December, well into spring and even later in some cases, snow lovers are spoilt for choice. There’s everything from the mildest of slopes for your family’s first foray on skis, to the wildest imaginable backcountry where full avalanche kit and years of experience are required. So switch your shades for goggles, the bikini for a beanie, and start planning for a dive into Asia’s snowy deeps
HOKKAIDO Deep and crisp and uneven
One resort has single-handedly put this northern island on the agendas of the world’s skiers and snowboarders. A couple of decades ago, an enlightened off-piste policy and outwardlooking attitude lifted little Niseko out of obscurity. Interestingly its success has coincided with the country’s long economic slump, so it’s a case study in the sort of fresh thinking needed across Japan, not just in ski tourism. Today the early adopters – mostly Australians and Kiwis, hungry for midsummer snow – are fanning out to look for fresher tracks. In their wake come increasing numbers of Europeans, Hong Kongers, Singaporeans, Malaysians and the more affluent mainland Chinese.
Old hands now like to bemoan the lack of Japanese to be heard around town, but on the plus side the influx of foreigners has led to a diverse culinary scene. It’s possible to eat twice-baked croissant aux amandes for breakfast, Neopolitan pizza or a gourmet burger for lunch, and Mexican or Sichuanese for dinner. Head for the ice bars afterwards and later on a kebab shop or chippy van might tempt you as you wind your way back to your chalet.
Of course the fact there’s a resort here at all is down to the most essential ingredient of any ski location snow. In this, Niseko is richly endowed, with winters accumulating an average of around metres, much of it dry and fluffy as duck down.
That said, some neighbouring resorts do almost as well and the lessons of Niseko are starting to rub off here too. Loosening up the riding rules and adding eateries, new locations like Furano, towards the centre of Hokkaido, are expanding their offer. Kiroro and Tomamu, still centred on big hotels, appeal in particular to families and to Asian clientele, while the city of Sapporo has a ring of small resorts that let you follow days on the slope with nights on the razz. skiing-hokkaido.com
GULMARG On top of the world
Gulmarg has for long been an alternative for seasoned skiers who would rather skip the long queues in the Swiss Alps to enjoy a quiet winter here. An otherwise sleepy town, just a -minute drive from Srinagar International Airport, it is most lively during the winters. This is when the town generates the most income, close to crore annually from tourism alone, its only means. One of the top attractions in the area is the Gulmarg Gondola, which is one of the highest cable cars in the world at , metres. Views from here include that of snow-dusted the treetops and experienced skiers speeding downhill, while dodging obstacles in their path.
Gulmarg Gondola stops at two levels – 3hase I and 3hase II, for which tickets are available at the base station open daily ampm 3hase I and 3hase II
gulmarggondola.com). Of the two, 3hase I or the Kungdoor peak is usually more busy with activities such as snowmobiling, sledging and ice skating. Smaller hillocks in this area cater are busy with beginners acquainting themselves with the sport. Locals have open-air food stalls that also attract those who would rather enjoy the crisp air at the world’s tallest mountain ranges over a plate of Kashmiri biryani and kawah green tea infused with spices) than indulge in any physical activities. Daredevils may find The Aparwath peak of the Himalayas in 3hase II more challenging for Alpine skiing. Even if you aren’t one who takes to the skis easily, the view of the surrounding mountains from here is simply breathtaking. If nothing else, it is worth making a trip for a selfie on the face of the world’s highest mountain rage — the Himalayas.
SOUTH KOREA Prepared for the party
Though it gets far less natural snow than its northeast neighbour, South Korea bulks this up with the artificial variety. The result is a lower-priced alternative best suited to improvers and families.
That picture has shifted somewhat lately, as facilities for the coming Winter Olympics in Pyeongchang come online, meaning there’s something even for committed speed merchants added to the mix.
Brand-new infrastructure including direct rail access from Incheon International Airport to the host resorts whisks you out to where the country’s longest runs now await. A shot at an Olympic downhill or slalom run may never again be this accessible. One drawback is the crowds at peak times. Avoid holiday periods at all costs and ideally
ski midweek to minimise lines and run-off areas choked with every level of learner. Pyeongchang’s Phoenix Park (phoenixpark.co.kr) and Yongpyong (yongpyong.co.kr) are good choices for non-Korean speakers, while for serious snowboarders Wellihillipark Snow 3ark (wellihillipark.com) in Hoengseong has international competition-level super-pipes and a great mogul course.
KAZAKHSTAN Opulence is in
Just outside Almaty, former capital of Kazakhstan, is Shymbulak, a brash resort that is testament to the huge wealth available to the privileged in this country. Whether in the lift-line or ordering vodkas at the bar, you’ll be brushing shoulders with the scions of oligarchs, usually immaculately suited and booted in the latest ski fashion.
Out on the slopes, there are only three lifts but together they take you all the way up to , metres, higher than almost any other lift-accessed point on the continent. From here the view is as sublime as it is surreal. The serrated peaks of the Tien Shan guard the horizon, immutable and unfazed. Below you lies a kilometre of vertical, typically loaded with a more-than-adequate metre or two of snow. It’s possible that this place may follow South Korea in hosting the Winter Olympics, so what you see is just the beginning Shymbulak is certain to have plenty more money lavished on it. shymbulak.com/en
KAMCHATKA Call of the wild
It’s not what most people consider when they think “Asia”, but this vast Russian peninsula offers very exotic thrills indeed. The preferred route to the snows here is from the air, dropping down onto enormous peaks – some still-active volcanoes – from a helicopter. While winter can be bitter with temperatures often dropping below - 20 C, if you have the warm gear, the skills and the bank balance, you can sample some of the most off-the-wall off-piste slopes anywhere. Want to ski inside a volcanic crater" No problem. From a peak all the way to the Pacific" Why not"
Expect long, swooping lines where the only other tracks for miles will be those carved by the others from your chopper. Once you bottom out, it’s back aboard for a lift up another peak, with as much as , metres of vertical possible in a single day. skiinginkamchatka.com