A guide to Vietnam’s impressive food culture
Vietnamese food is not necessarily all about the meat. Vegetarians will also find lots of options to savour
There is a distinctive beauty and culture in every city, country, and region – things that make them stand out from one another. Some places naturally receive more recognition than others, despite scattered diversity and richness across the globe. I observed something similar about northern Vietnam — a classic example of an unknown destination – even before I set foot in the country. I embarked on a journey to Hanoi, Hạ Long Bay, Hội An and Huế to discover the options available to me as a vegetarian. More than I expected, this destination threw many surprises at me.
FIRST STOP: HANOI
I initially stayed at the old quarter of Hanoi, which was a sight to savour. It is as cramped as Trafalgar Square on New Year’s Eve; with what looks like the highest density of bikes in the world. However, a sense of blissful chaos is in the air because, though the deafening honking,
an aura of calm complements the old quarter; tourists are perched along the sidewalks on flimsy plastic stools relishing local beer and food. Shops on all sides continue to do brisk business selling ‘Under Armour’ tees and ‘North-Face’ jackets that would undeniably scandalise the custodians of both brands.
Meanwhile, sumptuous bowls of Bun Cha, a grilled-pork and noodle dish; and Xoi, a sticky rice preparation with grilled meat is served on the street. The hustle and bustle further comprises fruit vendors sprinkling sugar, salt, and spice mix on assortments of freshly cut raw mangoes, strawberries, and pineapples to tourists; while toddlers play Jianzi, a shuttlecock- kicking game.
The native servings however only come second to the Pho, a noodle soup which has recently gained global stature. The warm broth typically served with chicken (Pho Ga) or beef (Pho Bo) and rice noodles famously basked in glory when the legendary Anthony Bourdain hosted former US President Barack Obama over it during the latter’s visit to the country. Hence, my first dinner is replete with Hanoi and Huda, two local beers with a vegetarian variant of the Pho which includes umami, tofu, and shitake mushrooms. Though the dish contains negligible spice, it is held together and balanced with subtle flavours. This is followed by root vegetable fried spring rolls and Banh Xeo Chay, a rice pancake stuffed with wild mushrooms and accompanied by soft-steamed rice noodles, sliced raw mango, salad leaves, and rice paper. The experience involves wrapping a piece of the Ban Xeo along with the noodles, soy sauce, and greens in the rice paper which has to be moistened a bit before rolling. It is a mélange of the soft rice paper, crunchy greens, and the rich and comforting pancake. It is safe to say I was floating on cloud nine.
HA LONG BAY ADVENTURES
The following day I am woken up by one of the most beautiful aromas known to humankind – the warm and roasted smell of Vietnamese coffee which travelled from the hotel atrium’s bustling coffee shop up to my room. A quick hot breakfast of omelette and French baguette, a standard breakfast option for eggetarians in Vietnam, and I am on my way to Ha Long Bay. The congregation of 1969 islands are a 4-hour drive from
Hanoi in northern Vietnam. The overcast sky coupled with continuous drizzle calls for another hot cup of coffee, with a dash of condensed milk. In Vietnam, vegetarians are not given strange looks, given the strong Buddhist culture in the country. However, they do scratch their head once and scramble for choices to offer!
As we cruise on the Ha Long for a night, the chef is on his toes curating a menu for my vegetarian appetite. He musters all that he can from his toque and does a fabulous job with the supplies on-board. I enjoy fresh rice paper as well as tofu-fried spring rolls, steamed radish, stir fried tofu, and a raw mango salad. After seven meals in the country, one thing is certain — I can’t satiate my sweet tooth on the dinner table as the dessert course predominantly consisted of cut fruits.
In Vietnam, vegetarians are not given strange looks, given the strong Buddhist culture in the country
EXPLORING HỘI AN
Next on the itinerary is Hội An – a riverside town, which is beautifully lit up over the New Year. The visit comes at an opportune time as it gives our sweet pangs some reprieve with a grilled banana and rice-based dessert; banana coated with sticky rice wrapped in banana leaves and put on the grill. This is cut into pieces and smothered with sago pudding.
The laid-back town is brimming with with tourists in search of custom suits, clothing, and leather goods on hired bicycles or bikes. Once they are fatigued, they settle at the riverside restaurants for relaxed meals. I also observe that those traversing on foot can snack on mango cakes (it ironically has no mangoes) made with sticky rice with a peanut stuffing. They are available with street vendors and under 5000 VND, which offers a good reminder that one must certainly hone one’s bargaining skills for all street shopping. The bargaining on clothing can go up to 70 per cent while street food can be bargained for at half the price. The latter however doesn’t always require negotiation.
LAST STOP HUẾ
The final stop in the serene country is Huế - a historic town with the highlight being the Imperial Palace, where the royalty once resided. The Dong Ba market is also immensely popular for selling everything from first-copy watches to jewellery. The gourmet section of the town was intriguing to say the least, with a wide variety of fresh and dried fruits on display. The dried mango in particular is simply spectacular; it is thus advisable to taste the sugar-free variant. The Che Ba Mau, a tri-coloured dessert, is like a falooda but made with jelly, lentil paste, candied fruits, as well as banana, jackfruit, and coconut milk.
Simplicity triumphs in Vietnamese food, as it is predominantly non-spicy and focuses on freshness of the produce used. Nonvegetarians have plenty to choose from beef to frogs in meat, and lobsters to snails, but it is the limited options for vegetarians that surely pack a punch. There is a minimal outside influence, but for the baguette which portrays their French past and the Banh Mi, a wonderful rendition of the same, is the farthest a vegetarian can get to. The needs of those preferring other cuisines can also be met with Korean, Japanese, Italian, American, and even Indian options. However, despite a few cheat meals which included Garlic Naan and sabzi, it was Vietnamese food was the undisputable show stopper.
P.S: The King Roti buns and Egg-Coffee in the old quarter are definitely worth a try.
The gourmet section of the Huê' town features a wide variety of fresh and dried fruits on display