Anatomy of a leather shoe
Women have always ruled the footwear market, with a knack of chasing the shoe thats a perfect balance of fit and form. However, men too have become very particular about their shoes, whether it be the style or the material or the construction. The fashion-conscious male wants his cabinets packed with functional, yet fashionable pairs of shoes. So let me run you through a couple of pointers that break down the modern elements of a bespoke leather shoe.
The bottom of the shoe is the sole, which is the part of the shoe that sits below the wearer’s foot and comprises of three layers namely, the insole, midsole and outsole. The upper is the whole part of the shoe that covers the foot comprising of vamp (the section that covers the front part of the foot), quarter (the section found on each side of the back of a shoe) and the linings (a layer to increase the shoe’s comfort and lifespan). Then comes the welt that is a strip of leather used to connect the upper to the outsole. The upper and the sole together make the whole shoe. Furthermore, to delve further into more detail, the throat of the shoe is the opening where the shoe tongue is fixed that is bridged by the laces. Then we have the toe-cap that is added to the front of the shoe for strength and extra protection from wear and tear.
Talking about the appropriateness of leather, there are a plethora of skins, treatments and tanning methods available that make a significant difference to its quality. Calfskin is extremely durable leather that can last for years if maintained well. Then there is patent leather, a glossy leather with glassy mirror sheen, which is by far the most commonly used formal shoe material. Most
ateliers also incorporate suede that is a light material to wear and highly suitable for dry months.
Having high quality shoelaces preferably made up of waxed cotton, tied in a certain way, is a prerequisite to a sharper and a cleaner look. I would recommend you opt for an open lacing system with flat laces for derbies/ brogues but a closed lacing system with round laces for oxfords. Also an insight: the thinner the shoelaces, the better the quality.
As for their styling, for your corporate events and meetings, prefer classic brown wholecuts. If you are planning to attend an evening soiree, wear black patent leather Balmoral oxfords that go with your tuxedo. If you are feeling experimental, a pair of Chelsea boots paired with chinos can really make you standout and add some flair to your suit game.
Purchasing a pair of bespoke shoes can be a big decision as it is usually worth a king’s ransom. However, if you’re equipped with the right knowledge, it is always worth the investment if you truly understand the value of hand-made craftsmanship.
Sandeep Gonsalves breaks down the modern elements of a bespoke leather shoe
Having high-quality shoe laces is a prequisite to a sharper and cleaner look