Deccan Chronicle

SOURDOUGH

THE SIGNATURE TARTNESS OF SOURDOUGH IS MAKING IT A HOT FAVOURITE ACROSS NOVEAU MENUS TODAY

- SHILPI KAKKAR

For the bread devotees of the world, the fermented sourdough wafts in as a breath of fresh air. Bereft of yeast, milk, oil and artificial sweetening agents, the earlier-shrugged, now-championed loaf is fast becoming a staple across tables at home and at restaurant­s.

Whereas bread has traditiona­lly been prepared using wheat, oats, barley and a multitude of grains, the process of leavening dates back to the days of ancient Egypt when wild yeast was used to prepare sourdough. The popularity of sourdough slowly seeped into neighbouri­ng Rome, Greece and France, with the French perfecting over a hundred varieties of the treasured, tasty loaf over the years. Sourdough has emerged as flatbreads popular in Indian and Middle Eastern cuisines.

Says dietitian Sarika Nair of SlimnHappy, “Sourdough is the oldest form of fermentati­on of grain. It relies on a mix of wild yeast and lactic acid bacteria that are naturally present in flour, rather than baker’s yeast, to leaven the dough. In traditiona­l sourdough recipes, you will find three ingredient­s: sourdough starter (consists of flour and water), salt and flour. There is no yeast, no milk, no oils and no sweeteners. It is about as natural as you get when it comes to bread. The tang and the tartness is what makes sourdough special in taste. It is the lactic acid present in sourdough that helps degrade phytates (anti-nutrients in grains that impede absorption of minerals) by almost 62 per cent. Owing to its lower pH and lower glycemic index, sourdough is preferred over the regular bread and can help regulate blood sugar levels.” EASY PEASY

What elevates sourdough over its counterpar­ts is its easy digestibil­ity. The wild yeast and lactobacil­lus in the leaven neutralise the phytic acid as acidificat­ion of the dough takes place. This makes the foalte-rich and anti-oxidant packed bread easier for us to digest and for our system to readily absorb the minerals, such as calcium, magnesium, iron and zinc. Says Chef Sareen Madhiyan of Tappa, in Mumbai. “Sourdough tends to be more nutritious than the breads we usually eat, as it uses long slow fermentati­on technique making more minerals available to us. Restaurant­s and cafes are increasing­ly including sourdough in their menus to elevate a simple sandwich to a gourmet one,” he adds. MAKING OF THE DOUGH

Says Jérémie Sabbagh, Head Baker, at the famous French-owned eatery Suzette Kitchen Garden in suburban Mumbai that serves up the best sourdough in the city, “We bake sourdough because its taste is absolutely incomparab­le. It is healthier in terms of nutrient index, having almost no gluten left after the long fermentati­on. Our method of preparatio­n is unique. We prepare sourdough using organic flours (wheat and rye or wheat, buckwheat, black rice), organic water and organic sea salt. Then allow the fermentati­on to take place over a period of 30-36 hours, finally baking at a high temperatur­e of around 2600C. You can keep it wrapped in a clean cloth for three to four days at room temperatur­e. To elongate shelf life, cut and freeze in a zip log bag and then straight toast it when you wish to eat it.” Typically, it needs to be consumed in its freshest state as possible to retain its original texture and taste. REV IT UP

The taut and turgid house baked sourdough poee (a Goan rendition) makes for a great nibble with a choice of balchow butter or cheesy black pepper butter or whipped pork-rosemary butter or even choriz butter. “In fact sourdough left overs can be used in soups to add character or even lend robustness to sauces and stews,” says Sabbagh. “You must store sourdough at room temperatur­e, ideally wrapped in foil or an airtight container. If it turns hard, bake it for five minutes in an oven with a small bowl of water,” advises Chef Sareen. As for consumptio­n, breakfast is ideally the best time to consume bread as you must avoid too much carbohydra­te in your diet later in the day, adds Sarika.

With the current food trend swinging in favour of gluten free food, the popularity of sour dough is certainly on the uprise.

 ??  ?? Shilpi Kakkar
Shilpi Kakkar

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