Deccan Chronicle

Vignettes from PM Modi’s birt

And there’s even more history ensconced in this little town, d

- NIVI SHRIVASTAV­A

Indian small towns are fascinatin­g in their quirky ways, cocooned in their unique history and folklores. Vadnagar, a small town in the Mehsana District of Gujarat, is not only another small town but also an interestin­g hamlet with a lot of historical significan­ce. A spotlight shined on Vadnagar especially when it was learnt that this quaint little town was the hometown of none other than the current Prime Minister of India, Narendra Modi. In fact, after winning the Lok Sabha elections in 2014, the prime minister even visited Vadnagar.

Like any other small town in the country, Vadnagar too was a typical slow township, quietly guarding its 4,500-year-old archaeolog­ical secrets in its magnificen­t ruins and ancient monuments spread across the settlement.

PRESENT ATTRACTION­S

In the past few years, however, the place has undergone a quick makeover although its antiquity remains intact in the alfresco buildings and old-world doorways that add to the hamlet’s peculiar characteri­stics. One of the most popular tourist spots today is perhaps the Vadnagar Railway Station — here you’d find the old, non-functional tea stall that was once apparently run by PM Modi. The station has undergone a major facelift since 2014 and is surrounded by beautiful modern pillars and walls around the vicinity.

Incidental­ly, Vadnagar (named after the Banyan tree), which was regarded as a prominent region in the ancient civilisati­on, was known by different names, including Chamatkarp­ur, Anandapur, Anarthapur and Vruddhanag­ar across different eras. In fact, Vadnagar was believed to be the centre of commerce and trade during the reign of Solanki kings in the 12th century.

ONE OF THE MOST POPULAR TOURIST SPOTS TODAY IS PERHAPS THE VADNAGAR RAILWAY STATION — HERE YOU’D FIND THE OLD, NON-FUNCTIONAL TEA STALL THAT WAS ONCE APPARENTLY RUN

BY PM MODI. THE STATION HAS UNDERGONE A MAJOR FACELIFT SINCE 2014 AND IS SURROUNDED BY BEAUTIFUL MODERN PILLARS

AND WALLS AROUND THE VICINITY.

AHEAD OF THE KIRTI TORANS IS THE FAMOUS 15TH-CENTURY HATKESHWAR MAHADEV TEMPLE, A POPULAR SHRINE FOR THE NAGAR BRAHMIN COMMUNITY. ACCORDING TO FOLKLORE, THE IN THIS TEMPLE EMERGED ON ITS OWN (TERMED

IN SANSKRIT), AROUND WHICH THE SHRINE WAS BUILT USING RED SANDSTONE IN INDO-SARACENIC ARCHITECTU­RE

PAST PERFECT

The main water body in the town is the Sharmistha Lake with a small island connected by a 7-km long inlet canal. The island has been developed into an urban park and has a stadium. Some other tourist attraction­s are Jain temples, Amarkund and Gauri Kund.

Another famous tourist attraction here is the twin Kirtistham­bhas or Kirti Torans (victory columns) built in the 12th century during the Solanki period. Built in red and yellow sandstone, the two columns are supported by arches with intricate carvings and sculptures depicting the architectu­re of ancient Gujarat kingdoms.

Standing as a symbol of valour on the banks of Sharmistha Lake, these columns are among the few surviving examples of entrance gates that were erected to display battle tales and stories of war.

MORE TALES OF THE OLD LAND

On the road towards these monuments, one can find some unique old-world havelis with brilliant alfresco arts on the exterior walls. Locals claim these residences to be over 200 years old. These still use olden-style wooden doors painted in bright colours, accentuate­d with metal knobs and handles. In fact, these fascinatin­g olden doors of Vadnagar have a signature window-style opening at the bottom of the door — it was meant for ventilatio­n before the advent of electricit­y in the region.

A little ahead of the Kirti Torans is the famous 15th-century Hatkeshwar Mahadev temple, a popular shrine for the Nagar

Brahmin community. Accordin to folklore, the Shiva linga in th temple emerged on its ow (termed “swayambhu” i Sanskrit), around which th shrine was built using red san stone in Indo-Saracenic archite ture. The outer walls of the tem ple depict the exemplary orn mentation created with san stone carvings decorated wit

signature animal and floral motifs embossed around rock sculptures of gods, goddesses, mythical creatures, dancing apsaras, musicians and scenes from ancient scriptures of Ramayana and Mahabharat­a.

A little offbeat but historical­ly

important place to visit in the Vadnagar is a recently excavated Buddhist Monastery from the 7th century CE, which though is mostly ruined still have the remains of stupas and an open central yard identified in the ancient texts.

For the shopaholic­s who love to pick a souvenir through their travels, get some vibrant Gujarati Patola weaves or tie-and-dye dupattas with mirror work or block prints for your wardrobe.

You can also get very cool oxidized silver jewellery, leather juttis, puppets and bright cotton bags with traditiona­l motifs and copper bells at pocket-friendly rates.

HOW TO GET TO VADNAGAR

A LITTLE OFFBEAT BUT HISTORICAL­LY IMPORTANT PLACE TO VISIT IN THE VADNAGAR IS A RECENTLY EXCAVATED BUDDHIST MONASTERY FROM THE 7TH CENTURY CE, WHICH THOUGH IS MOSTLY RUINED STILL HAVE THE REMAINS OF STUPAS AND AN OPEN CENTRAL YARD IDENTIFIED IN THE ANCIENT TEXTS.

By road: Mehsana (35 km), Ahmedabad (111 km)

By train: Siddhpur, Patan railway station, 42 km from Vadnagar

By air: Nearest airport is Ahmedabad (111 km)

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 ?? ?? The kitschy doors and stalls in the city (right); Kirti Toran made by the Solanki kings in the 12th century (left)
SHIVA LINGA SWAYAMBHU
The kitschy doors and stalls in the city (right); Kirti Toran made by the Solanki kings in the 12th century (left) SHIVA LINGA SWAYAMBHU
 ?? ?? Colourful alfresco havelis and vintage homes of Vadnagar
Colourful alfresco havelis and vintage homes of Vadnagar
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 ?? ?? The Hatkeshwar Mahadev temple
The Hatkeshwar Mahadev temple
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