GASTRONOMY

Before your next trip to India, learn all about the fascinating origins, people, and unique ingredients behind the varied and flavourful regional cuisines of the country. Text & photographs by SANGEETA KHANNA

Five traditional recipes and a guide to the regional cuisines of India work up your appetite.

WITH ITS DIVERSE climatic zones and cultural plurality, India offers an irresistible bouquet of flavours. The topography, local produce, and traditional recipes of every region make up a potent cocktail of sights, scents, and tastes on your plate. It is highly recommended to visit some of the lesser known regions of India and experience their local cuisine.

Until the time comes when you can confidently plan a trip to the country, you can savour its regional dishes within the safe confines of your kitchen. We’ve put together a primer on the flavours of five states, with a local recipe from each!

COLOURS OF RAJASTHAN

Think of a hot, arid desert where the vibrant colours of traditional attire compete with the bold and rustic flavours of food, and soulful folk music evokes a yearning for long journeys. That’s Rajasthan for you.

The landscape of this western state is mostly monochromatic, thanks to its vast swathes of sand and buildings made of natural stones that borrow from the earth’s colours. The traditional garments of its people and the adornments of its numerous palaces and temples bring a splash of colour into the picture.

The food of Rajasthan brings its own hues, along with robust flavours of spices, dried wild berries, dairy, and game meats. You may wonder how the parched expanse of the Thar Desert could have made the palate of its inhabitants so refined— on one hand, the nomadic tribes conjured up the most surreal flavours using wild bushes and pit ovens, while on the other, the royal families of the region had their dishes prepared in precious metal containers with exotic spices and nuts that were part of the silk and spice trade. The staple food of Rajasthani nomads is simple yet soulful. The royals got used to enjoying this fare during their shikar (hunting) trips, and thus, it seeped into the royal kitchens as well, with more nuts, prime cuts of meats, saffron, ghee, and other ingredients that spelled affluence.

Here is the recipe of a nomadic flatbread called khoba roti with a surface pattern that resembles the sand dunes of its home state. It was earlier cooked on hot embers, but now an iron griddle is used. It is normally served with a mixed lentil dish like panchmel dal (made with five types of lentils), a red-chilli and garlic chutney, or a hearty meat stew that complements its rustic flavours.