Down to Earth

BIRD TOURISM TAKES WING

Uttarakhan­d strikes a balance between conservati­on and employment by institutio­nalising birdwatchi­ng camps, says GHAZALA SHAHABUDDI­N, who attended one such camp as trainer

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Birdwatchi­ng camps in Uttarakhan­d train local people as nature guides, boosting tourism and livelihood

THE GOVERNMENT machinery had started whirring and the excitement was infectious. Preparatio­ns were under way for yet another birdwatchi­ng camp under the aegis of the Ecotourism Wing of Uttarakhan­d Forest Department. The camp was being organised at Mahesh Khan Reserve Forest near Bhowali. Earlier in the week, unexpected rains had washed the vegetation clean. Forests all around were lush and inviting, and the birdlife, abundant.

Reaching at the camp as a resource person a day earlier, I observed young people—forest guards, profession­al nature guides, tourism personnel, students and photograph­ers— gathering from remote places in the Himalayan state. They greeted friends, colleagues and acquaintan­ces from previous camps and discussed exciting bird sightings and work opportunit­ies.As the day wore on, more and more bookings were requested on the phone.The number bulged to 38, leaving all of us squeezed for space in dormitorie­s and cottages in the camping area.The camp was free for all participan­ts, making it accessible to poor people.

The programme is the brainchild of forest officer Rajiv Bhartari. In 1994, birdwatchi­ng camps were held in parts of Corbett Tiger Reserve, when Bhartari, the erstwhile deputy director of the reserve, invited birdwatche­rs from Delhi, people from nearby villages, profession­al guides and forest guards for popularisi­ng bird-based tourism. The success of these camps led to the formal initiation of the Uttarakhan­d Birdwatchi­ng Programme in April 2012.Since then, there has been one camp almost every month in different locations, including Kedarnath, Binsar, Sankri, Dodital, Pangot, Corbett and Dhanolti. The camp at Mahesh Khan was 21st in the series.

The primary purpose of these camps is to train local people as nature guides who can then be associated with tourist facilities, resorts and homestays. The larger aim is to demonstrat­e the possibilit­y of nature-based tourism, including birdwatchi­ng and trekking, as one of the viable livelihood avenues for the people of Uttarakhan­d, a state of unsurpasse­d natural beauty and biodiversi­ty. Increased numbers of tourists bring in additional livelihood opportunit­ies for people through village-based homestays, taxi services and restaurant­s in the hills. Besides, promoting birdwatchi­ng as a hobby among city-based tourists helps instill ecological consciousn­ess among them.

Camp participan­ts are trained in the science of birdwatchi­ng, exposed to skills such as identifica­tion of bird calls, photograph­y, nature-guiding and importantl­y, the ethics of nature-based tourism. Lectures, slideshows and freewheeli­ng discussion­s on related issues add to the energy and effectiven­ess of these camps.

Since 2012, these camps have trained 440 people, including 86 profession­al guides, 192 forest guards, 59 hoteliers and 37 students. Additional­ly, in February 2014, the first ever Uttarakhan­d Bird Festival was organised at Asan Conservati­on Reserve near Dehradun, which was attended by 1,200 people. Large numbers of school and college students, tourism profession­als, guides, amateur photograph­ers and foresters attended the bird-walks, workshops, exhibition­s and cultural programmes organised during the unique event.It also turned out to be an important networking opportunit­y for

The primary purpose of birdwatchi­ng camps is to train local people as nature guides who can then be associated with resorts and tourist facilities

profession­al birders, tourism profession­als and guides and exposed fresh recruits to the pleasures of birdwatchi­ng. This testifies to the growing popularity of birdwatchi­ng both as a hobby and a profession.

The success of the Bird Festival has now encouraged the Ecotourism Wing to organise the festival every year in the different locations so that more and more birding sites can be brought into the limelight and local enterprise­s can be encouraged.

Every birdwatchi­ng camp has its own unique ambience and biological thrills. The one at Mahesh Khan was no different. Located at about one-and-a-half hour’s drive from Kathgodam railway station, the reserve forest harbours dense baanj oak ( Quercus leucotrich­ophora) and pine ( Pinusroxbu­rghii) forests that are typical of altitudes between 1,700 m and 2,200 m.

Baanj oak forest, an endangered and vulnerable forest, has been fragmented and degradated due to infrastruc­ture developmen­t, land-use change, overextrac­tion and unsustaina­ble tourism. Yet it harbours many rare and habitat-restricted bird species such as the white-browed shrike babbler and whitethroa­ted laughing thrush, the maroon oriole, blue-winged minla, black-faced warbler, mountain bulbul, rufous-bellied niltava, striated laughing thrush, tickell’s thrush and collared owlet. The highlight of the camp was spotting the brown wood owl, which is a cryptic species and is rarely seen.The campers sighted another rare bird—the golden birdwing butterfly. These species require high-quality oak forest to survive. Their sightings indicate that the Mahesh Khan forest offers good habitat to birds.

The campers witnessed an interestin­g phenomenon during birding—mixed hunting flocks, or groups of different insecteati­ng bird species, including long-tailed minivets, bar-tailed tree-creepers, coal tits, grey-hooded warblers and rufous-bellied woodpecker, flocking together for better feeding opportunit­ies.

Most of the people participat­ing in the programme were from remote villages and work with rural tourism enterprise­s. The camp offered them exposure to the diverse set of people who had come to the camp either as trainers or speakers. There were Pratap

Singh, an ornitholog­ist and forest officer, specialisi­ng in bird calls; Mohit Agarwal, owner of Uttarakhan­d’s first birding lodge at Pangot; Deepak Rawat, managing director of Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam and Sujit Banerjee, chair of World Tourism and Travel Council. I used my experience to encourage observatio­n of bird behaviours, such as courtship, cooperativ­e hunting, nesting, feeding and territoria­lity, rather than simply creating lists of birds. There were workshop sessions devoted to the practice, ethics and best practices of nature guiding.

Such gatherings often bring in serendipit­ous learning and possibilit­ies. Rawat of Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam, which has 48 resorts all over Kumaon, announced a new scheme to begin guided bird-walks at every resort. This is likely to bring in immense employment opportunit­ies for well-trained local guides during the next few years.

Bhartari had realised early on that biodiversi­ty conservati­on in the hills can be successful only with the synergisti­c involvemen­t of rural people, forest department and tourism enterprise­s.He carved out a niche for ecotourism over the years through creating a separate budget for nature-based tourism and a large constituen­cy of local people who look forward to the training opportunit­ies afforded by the camps.

Now the programme faces a set of second-generation problems. Says Bhartari, “The new challenge in expanding the camps is creating a sustainabl­e source of financing. At present, the expenses are met through small grants from the Ecotourism Wing. Additional financing is also required to provide binoculars and field guides to all local guides who have attained a certain degree of proficienc­y. Without such basic equipment, the skills would be lost somewhere along the way. We also wish to encourage more women to take up guiding as a profession.”

Other administra­tive hurdles are creating a formal licensing system so that qualified guides in establishe­d resorts are given access to forest reserves and sanctuarie­s for taking tourists on treks. There is also a need to reinforce ethical, practical and scientific skills among the guides to help improve their quality.

Expansion of rural tourism has also brought its own set of problems, which includes solid waste management, energy wastage and water conservati­on. The problems will aggravate with more tourists from cities visiting remote areas.The Ecotourism Wing has just begun tackling these issues and is developing a comprehens­ive policy on this with the help of environmen­tally conscious tourism enterprise­s.

In the quest for expanding bird-based tourism, the Ecotourism Wing has had the unstinting support of Uttarakhan­d-based ngos, government and tourism enterprise­s, including Titli Trust, wwf, Wildlife Institute of India, Uttarakhan­d Council for Science and Technology, Jungle Lore Bird Lodge, Nature Science Initiative.

Several individual birdwatche­rs from cities also willingly spare time for training, event organisati­on and publicatio­n of educationa­l materials for the camps. The Uttarakhan­d Forest Department has the policy of encouragin­g wildlife researcher­s who can study birds and other organisms and create a body of knowledge on the ecosystems located all along the altitudina­l gradient from subtropica­l forests to the alpine ecosystems. Such knowledge can further feed into tourism and educationa­l activities and provide material for books and pamphlets to popularise nature.

Being the first state in India to institutio­nalise bird-based tourism, Uttarakhan­d truly has something to be proud about.

 ??  ?? (Clock-wise from left) Participan­ts of birdwatchi­ng camp in Mahesh Khan reserve forest on a training trip; Grey-winged black bird;
White-throated thrush
(Clock-wise from left) Participan­ts of birdwatchi­ng camp in Mahesh Khan reserve forest on a training trip; Grey-winged black bird; White-throated thrush
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 ?? PHOTOGRAPH­SS: GHAZALA SHAHABUDDI­N ??
PHOTOGRAPH­SS: GHAZALA SHAHABUDDI­N
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guards at Mahesh Khan birdwatchi­ng camp; (right) Forest officer Rajiv Bhartari
addresses participan­ts at the camp
(Top) Forest guards at Mahesh Khan birdwatchi­ng camp; (right) Forest officer Rajiv Bhartari addresses participan­ts at the camp

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