BEST FACE FORWARD
Guerlain’s international makeup artist Gary Cooper lets us in on some complexion basics, and the secrets to creating luminous skin
This season it’s all about radiant yet matte skin, as seen at the spring/summer shows of Alexander Wang, Prabal Gurung, Balmain, Roberto Cavalli, and Alexander McQueen. Gary Cooper, Guerlain’s makeup artist and part of the renowned Olivier Echaudemaison art team (he was trained by none other than Olivier Echaudemaison, Guerlain’s creative director, himself ) tells us how to clinch an enviable complexion and the makeup look that stole the show.
To begin with, Cooper stresses on proper skincare. It’s not just about covering up problem areas but clearing them, as makeup sits better on a smooth complexion. This can only happen with a dedicated skincare regime. Exfoliate twice a week and don’t skip night cream, he suggests. “Your skin is at rest during the night, so the products penetrate deeper and the skin is revitalised much better than during the day,” he says. Take care of your blemishes and other imperfections like puffiness around the eyes. “It’s always best to apply foundation to clean, prepared skin,” he says. Use a soap-free face wash followed by a toner and moisturiser. “You cannot apply foundation without moisturising—even if you have oily skin. If you have a greasy complexion, you don’t need to use a heavy cream as a light fluid will work much better on you. Without a moisturiser, the foundation doesn’t blend well, looks patchy, and will eventually feel uncomfortable,” reveals Cooper. “If you only have an oily T-zone, use a shine control product prior to applying foundation,” he adds.
Prep work aside, foundation is the real star of this unblemished look. “The colour has to match—test it on the jaw and see if it blends effortlessly. Go to a reputable brand, try it in natural light, and ask questions while buying one,” Cooper advises. But it’s one thing to buy the right foundation and quite another to use it well. “As far as blending is concerned, less is more. Start in the centre of the face and move outwards, always blending with your fingertips or a foundation brush. Using a foundation brush will give you a much better finish, especially if you have a heavy hand,” shares Cooper.
Acne and blemishes bringing you down? Try high coverage foundations with better resilience. “Guerlain’s Parure Gold, ` 4,650, and Parure Extreme, ` 3,075, offer high coverage, yet look natural and don’t budge,” says Cooper. “I’d recommend a matte foundation followed by an illuminating product like Guerlain’s Météorites, ` 2,050,” he reveals. Just dust some on the tops of your cheeks, temples, and the bridge of your nose—areas that naturally catch the light.