BEAUTY POTIONS TO TRANSFORM YOUR SKIN
A RADIANT glow is always on-trend. Bazaar reveals the latest elixirs for SPARKLING skin. Photographs by Ashish Chawla
SILVER LINING
Say yes to luxe metals sheathing your lids. Work this Chanel Spring-Summer ‘13 look for a universally-flattering summer update to metallic lids. Dress and choker, Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci. Ring, ` 14,500, Amrapali. Fashion editor: Rahul Vijay.
GLEAM LIKE A DIAMOND UNDER THE FIRST KISS OF SUNLIGHT. BAZAAR INVESTIGATES THREE NEW SKIN-ALTERING SCIENCES THAT PROMISE EXTREME HYDRATION, EFFECTIVE WRINKLE REMOVAL, AND MORE POTENCY, TO MAKE
YOUR COMPLEXION GO FROM JUST RADIANT TO LIT-FROM-WITHIN.
CELL REGENERATION
Fibroblasts aren’t part of usual dinner conversation, but these are the cells responsible for the health and structure of the skin. They control the amount of collagen and elastin produced, and the amount of cells in the epidermal layer—more cells mean tighter, denser skin. As we age, these cells become less effective, leading to loss of elasticity—in other words, sagging, blurred jaw lines, and wrinkles. So far, injectibles have been the only way to stimulate these cells. But now, newer technology could mean no needles. Creams are set to take over.
Cellular technology is the way ahead for cosmetics giants, as evidenced by La Prairie’s bestselling Cellular Power System, which claims to penetrate deep to enhance the skin’s own natural antioxidants. The latest release is Shiseido’s Bio-Performance range. “We have focused on something called Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF), which is in-charge of cell regeneration of fibroblasts for the Bio-Performance range,” says Toru Sakura, part of the Cosmetics Information Development Group at Shiseido Research Center, Japan. The fibroblast surface has keyholes for cell regeneration, and with age, the number of keys reduce and the bond between them declines. According to Sakura, Shiseido’s product plays the role of both increasing the number of, and enhancing the bond between the keys and keyholes.
Dermatologists are excited about the technology, but warn that the effects may not be immediately apparent. Mumbai-based celebrity cosmo-dermatologist Dr Jaishree Sharad says, “Anti-ageing creams must stimulate the fibroblasts to increase collagen production, which is the basis of smooth skin. In theory, a skin cream that promises to do this sounds wonderful, but it would only penetrate the skin and be effective if used regularly for a long time.”
MOISTURISING GAGS
The reason one’s complexion looks plump, taut, and young? Polymers called Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs)— hyaluronic acid, which carries 1,000 times its weight in water, is an example—which absorb moisture within the skin cells. The new potent potions, such as Guerlain Super Aqua-Serum and YSL’s Forever Youth Liberator, whose celebrity following includes Victoria Beckham and Rihanna, are infused with hydrolysed GAGs—not just one, but sometimes up to three—to bind moisture and increase elasticity. Frederic Bonte, director of Guerlain research, says that the serum reduces cellular waste and increases moisture by more than 72 percent after just 30 hours of application.
Dermatologists firmly believe in the efficacy of GAGs. “They enhance moisture levels, which results in intense hydration that gives skin a reflective, radiant quality,” says Dr Sharad. Regular application is key, says Dr Rashmi Shetty, Mumbai- based celebrity dermatologist. “The effect wears off after 24 hours, so like any other skincare product, it needs
regular application.”
ROSE REVIVAL
Rose has been used extensively in the beauty industry for its antiseptic and anti-ageing properties. “As an antiseptic, it works on skin erosions, scars, and surgery marks; it also tones, lifts, and helps keep wrinkles at bay. It is an active ingredient recommended for ‘Vata’ personalities who tend to have dry facial skin and tendency towards wrinkling,” says Dr Vishal Kumar, director, R&D Forest Essentials. However, as with natural ingredients, the potency is lost in the process of extraction of the essential ingredients.
The new rose skincare promises more potency with newer methods to process the extract. One such range is the Dior Prestige, which revives an age old recipe used by Marie Antoinette that employed the dark red rose souveraine. Dior uses avantgarde techniques—cryo-fragmentation to freeze petals in liquid nitrogen, plunging it into liquid fat to release active ingredients, and filtration without heat to preserve the essence completely —to filter the flower quickly and to make it more powerful. And when it comes to potency, a jar of LancÔme’s Absolue L’Extrait, ` 22,000, contains a million rose stem cells extracted through a biotechnological process to increase the strength.
While Dr Sharad isn’t sure about the anti-ageing properties of this flower, she is still convinced that it is very soothing for the skin. But while dermatologists insist on research-based proof about the workings of skincare, a plumped, luminous face is all the proof we need. And let’s face it, in these rushed, stressed times, products that bestow fabulous skin are sometimes the only route to instant gratification.