All in the fAmily
The newest generation of five of India’s leading jewellers is treading new paths, and taking their legacies forward into a shiny, new future
Dynasties have always found favour in India: The power of a few well-known surnames is undeniable. And on the dressier side of things, the only profession that mimics that, is the jewellery industry. The Kotharis of the global KGK Group, the Ganjams of the eponymous Bengaluru-based house, the Jaipur-based ethnic jewellery label Amrapali, Delhi’s Bharanys, and the Kasliwals of The Gem Palace in Jaipur: They are to jewellery what the Kapoors are to films. Over the years and decades, these families have reached such cult status simply, only, because of their work. While the Kotharis of Jaipur have a legacy of over a century in gemstone trading, the Ganjams go back over 125 years, receiving royal patronage from the erstwhile princely state of Mysore. Amrapali, the youngest of the list, has the distinction of taking Indian ethnic and tribal jewellery design to the world, and the Bharanys became the first Indian jewellery brand to collaborate with a designer of the stature of Oscar de la Renta. The Kasliwals of Jaipur have contributed in no uncertain terms to the growing international interest in Indian-made jewellery. And today, the new generations of these houses are taking their family businesses to the next level.
The Global Family Firm
With bases today in the USA, Antwerp, Hong Kong, and Jaipur, the Kothari family is one of the widest-spread of this list. What began as a gemstone trading firm in the early 1900s in Jaipur has today turned into a multinational company that owns the fine jewellery label Entice, which retails in India, the UAE, and China. “People get old, but the business never should,” says Sanjay Kothari, vice chairman of the KGK group who lives and works in Hong Kong with his wife, Entice’s creative director Manju Kothari. “And it is important for each member of the family to have the scope to show their talent,” he adds. Recently back from exhibiting Entice at the international watch and jewellery expo in Basel, Switzerland, Manju Kothari echoes her husband’s thoughts. “An open mind to absorb changing lifestyles is the biggest requirement for any business that wants to survive amongst increasing competition,” she says. After launching Entice in 2004, the next step for the Kotharis are their investments in Paraiba mines in Brazil, that will give the family a rare new gemstone to play with.
Past Meets Present
Temple jewellery has been a mainstay at Ganjam for over 125 years. The Bengaluru-based brand, with the family’s young scion Dushyanth Ganjam in the lead as retail head, is sparing no efforts to preserve the crafts of its ancestors. “A research team has been dedicated to authenticate various South Indian heritage crafting techniques.” Such importance is attached to traditional craft at the Ganjam ateliers that in their workshop, there are pieces that have been in the making for close to a decade because it takes a single artisan to make the entire piece.
On the other hand, Ganjam’s modern collections have also met with great success. “Purchasing patterns are changing with the youth, so it’s critical that we make our brand values relevant to the young India,” says Dushyanth. And it is with this two-pronged approach that he plans to take his family into the future, and “build the ‘Made in India’ brand internationally”.
Power to the Youth
Started by Rajiv Arora and Rajesh Ajmera in Jaipur in the 1970s, Amrapali was the first label to introduce ethnic silver jewellery into mainstream retail. They made what was restricted to the tribes, a fashion statement. Tarang Arora, as next in line, takes this legacy very seriously. “In the future, we are planning to start a museum with my dad’s and uncle’s private collection of tribal silver jewellery,” he shares. But that is not all. His work for the brand exemplifies today’s creative shift towards fashionable jewellery in his recent collaboration with designer Manish Arora. Their joint line makes fantastic use of traditional meenakari (enamel work), and uses materials like wood with gold, silver, precious stones.
Their retail site, tribebyamrapali.com, recently launched by Tarang’s wife Akanksha, is only the beginning. “In 20 years, we want to make Amrapali synonymous with Indian jewellery around the world,” he says.
“I think we are the lucky generation which has been handed all the name, fame, and business served to us on a platter,” says Tarang Arora
The Quiet Geniuses
In the cultivated hush of Sunder Nagar, one of the Capital’s most posh areas, the Bharanys have sold their unique and eye-catching jewellery for the past three generations. Specialising in uncut and coloured gemstones, Mahesh, along with his brother Ramji, have taken over the reigns of the business from their father CL Bharany, and continue to run it as a closely-knit business.
“Ramji and I both source unusual stones for our collections. He designs pieces using rose-cut diamonds with coloured stones, and I prefer using coloured stones and uncut diamonds. We value quality over quantity and pride ourselves on producing bespoke, one-of-a-kind pieces,” says Mahesh, younger of the two brothers,
“We value quality over quantity and pride ourselves on producing bespoke, one-of-a-kind pieces,” says Mahesh Bharany
and by extension, easier to get an interview with. The Bharanys are notoriously media shy, and a one-on-one is a rare privilege.
Walking into their shop, you wouldn’t expect that this is the firm that works closely with acclaimed designer Oscar de la Renta. “Our association with Mr ODLR goes back more than 30 years,” says Mahesh. “He is a big fan of India and its textiles. About 10 years ago, he saw our contemporary line and wanted us to create a special collection for his stores.” This was the beginning of a collaboration that is as stunning as it is understated. True to character, the Bharanys have rarely, if ever, advertised their work. “Today, everyone is tech-savvy and knows what they want. And they can reach us through our new website, bharanys.com.” But despite the portal, word-of-mouth, feels Mahesh, is Bharanys strength. “There will always be a niche for jewellery like ours.”
The Gateway to India
How would you feel if you, while showing an elegant lady around your jewellery atelier, found out she was a real, honestto-God Queen? Of a country. This has happened with Samir Andrea Kasliwal, sixth-generation member of the famed Kasliwal family from Jaipur, whose shop, The Gem Palace, is on every Indophile celebrity’s must-visit list. But that did not surprise him, because since childhood, he has seen celebrities from Jackie O to Princess Di, Richard Gere to Mick Jagger, shopping here, spending time with members of the family to get one-of-a-kind pieces designed. “I think the age-old Indian tradition of children entering their father’s profession had something to do with my instinct that this was to be my place,” says Samir. “And I find it a wonderful challenge to ‘read’ my clients and to transform their dreams into jewellery that they will cherish and love,” he adds.
Today, almost a year after the passing away of Samir’s uncle, the famed Munnu Kasliwal who was known to transform ordinary gems into works of art, the brand is going strong. Visitors like the Queen of Holland, who tried to go incognito before her credit card let out her identity, mingle with everyday visitors who drop in at The Gem Palace’s palatial atelier for a look-see. Its unique mix of traditional Indian craftsmanship and art deco design has never been more in demand, and Samir is now planning the expansion of the brand. The first phase, he says, will focus on Indian cities, and subsequently, major cities abroad. “Growth; I dream of growth. I dream of a Gem Palace in every important city of the world.”