RETURN TO NATURE
Follow the tracks of lions and leopards into the heart of the African wild.
Many remember watching the epic romance between Meryl Streep and Robert Redford unfold in the dramatic surroundings of Kenya, in Sydney Pollack’s classic, Out of Africa. Streep’s character, Karen Blixen, looked effortlessly chic and Robert Redford, in the role of a handsomely rugged and free-spirited hunter, made viewers dream of walking in their footsteps. The duo’s daring escape through the Maasai Mara, spending nights in tents in the heart of the wilderness with the danger of wild animals, had a thrillingly romantic quality to it.
In a way, this kind of exhilarating encounter with nature is similar to what visitors look for on their first trip to Africa; hoping to witness nature in its purest form, while still travelling in style.
There is something raw and magical about the Maasai Mara, a natural reserve in southwestern Kenya. The ‘big five’—lions, elephants, buffaloes, leopards, and rhinoceros—can be spotted there, and the Mara is also known for the spectacular ‘great migration’, where millions of animals cross the border between Kenya and Tanzania every year from July to October in search of food and water. Covering a distance of about 1800 miles, zebras, gazelles, elands, and wildebeest navigate this distance, constantly wary of predators, yet driven by their urge for survival.
Historically, the population of the Maasai Mara has also been a nomadic one. The Maasai tribe lives off cows, drinking their milk, and eating their meat. It is a Maasai religious belief that God gave them all the earth’s cattle, and the Maasai traditionally migrate with their cattle between Kenya and Tanzania, following the region’s animal population in moving away from the dry season.
This symbiotic relationship between humans and nature forged the Maasai culture. Tribe elders teach younger Maasai how to survive in the bush by using fighting skills and natural medical remedies. The younger Maasai learn how to kill predators, how to treat a broken leg with the help of sticks and herbs, and how to cohabitate with the wildlife.
In the past, some Maasai would become warriors—a highly respected position in the community—and had to fight a male lion with a spear and a sword as a rite of passage. The ritual’s popularity has declined over the years with the increasing concern for the lion population.
The Maasai has become less nomadic, and in many areas have become increasingly involved with tourism in the region, working as guides for hotels and lodges.
“The Maasai culture is an integral part of our hotel experience,” explains Munene Ngotho, General Manager of the Fairmont Mara Safari Club. “And the Maasai are eager to share knowledge on their culture and region.” Visiting a Maasai village is one of the hotel’s main activities.
Situated near the Mara River where, at night, visitors can hear the grunts and roars of hippos, the Fairmont Mara Safari Club (tel: +254 0 20 226 5555; www. fairmont.com) was converted from a hunting camp over a decade ago, and offers the comfort of luxurious tents while still embracing its surroundings. And it is indeed that type of luxury-adventure tourism that is the region’s most popular.
Like the Fairmont Mara Safari Club, the Ngerende Lodge (tel: +254 0 20 210 3244; www.ngerende.com), is also located in the Maasai Mara National Reserve. Kenyan born Eunice Kaiga, who owns the lodge with her British husband Robert Glenie, wrote her thesis on how the Maasai Mara should be developed. When the hotel was built, the owners refused to cut down a single tree; they felt that the lodge had to adapt to the environment and not the other way around. The hotel has an organic garden from where the chef picks his fruits and vegetables depending on the daily menu.
“We wanted our guests’ experience to go beyond the big five, says Eunice. “It’s not just about the game drives; it’s also about peace, culture, and a magical silence. If you listen at night, you can hear it.”
The peaceful environment attracts many guests who typically choose a balance of activities between game drives, balloon safari, relaxing by the pool, as well as a breakfast or dinner in the bush. It’s during those meals that Maasai guides share stories about their heritage.
The lodge also has its own adventurous extension, Ngerende in the Wild, a luxury temporary camp by the banks of the Mara river, offering amenities like a private chef and butler per travelling party.
It’s again about infusing luxury with a sense of adventure, allowing a traveller the opportunity to dine under the stars surrounded by the majestic beasts of the Maasai Mara, while absorbing the magic of the Maasai culture and feeling a million miles away from home.