THE ICONOCLAST
Rahul Akerkar’s INDIGO, the restaurant that set the tone for standalone fine dining in the country, turns 15 this year
“Back in 1999, when chef Rahul Akerkar and his wife and Malini opened their restaurant, it posed a challenge to the stranglehold that five-star hotels had on the fine-dining scene in Mumbai—the buzz was unmissable,” says industrialist Anand Mahindra about Indigo. The restaurant is credited with bringing about a culinary revolution in the country, Mahindra has a treasure trove of memories from here. “I cherish the quiet meals in the Yellow Room, where the quality of the food and that of the time my wife Anuradha and I spent with each other were in perfect sync.”
It is the blend of mood, memories, and culinary novelty—like European delicacies with Asian influences (regulars haven’t forgotten the lobster risotto and pressed watermelon), alongside gourmet savories like meats and cheeses, and an extensive wine list—that has earned Indigo a reputation for opening a new chapter in fine-dining. “When we started, people realised that anyone could do great restaurants regardless of whether they were located in a hotel or as a standalone. Maybe we gave other restaurateurs that confidence,” says Akerkar. Located in the heart of South Mumbai, near the Taj Mahal Palace, it became a watering hole for those who frequented the hotel. Word spread soon enough, and along with drawing plaudits from international reviewers, it was ranked 28th in San Pellegrino’s Asia’s 50 best restaurants list in 2005, the first Indian restaurant to be featured.
These accolades, in turn, drew famous patrons: The Clintons, the Prince of Denmark, British Prime Minister David Cameron, The Rolling Stones, the Sultan of Brunei, and the Jolie-Pitts, among others. “More than the food, it is the perfect mix of discreet and warm that has drawn the people who have shaped the cultural landscape of the city,” says actor Rahul Bose. A chef from the Big Apple, Akerkar sowed the seeds of Indigo with his catering company, Moveable Feast, that he launched in 1993. He established a loyal clientèle before Indigo opened, and the success of this enterprise led him to open three more restaurants— Indigo Deli, Neel, and Tote on the Turf—under his now-consolidated brand, deGustibus. But Indigo still remains at the top. “I would attribute its success to the fact that Rahul doesn’t respond in a knee-jerk manner to every new fad or trend, but rather, sets the standards to which other restaurants aspire,” says Mahindra.
To commemorate Indigo’s 15th anniversary, Akerkar will open an outpost Delhi. Located near the Hyatt Regency in south Delhi, Akerkar promises the same food and vibe that his Mumbai patrons love. “Even though I am a recent fan,” says Vidya Balan, “I and my partner love to go to Indigo for those quiet dinners. Mumbai is a crowded city, and sometimes, you just want to get away to a place which nourishes all your senses. In this case, with good food!”
“When we started, people realised that anyone could do great restaurants...”