WHAT INDIA EATS DURING RAMZAN

HT’s selection of sumptuous delights from different states, some of which are prepared in restaurants and homes exclusively in this month of fasting

The month of Ramzan has begun. It is as much about eating as it is about fasting. Sehri (a pre-dawn meal) and iftar (an evening meal to break the fast) are the two meals every day during this holy month when Muslim families across India relish delicacies, some of which are especially made during Ramzan. The idea of the sehri meal is to eat food that is high in protein, is easily digestible and does not leave you thirsty for the rest of the day. Khajla (a kind of pancake) and pheni (a vermicelli dish) are integral to this meal in North India. Bakeries in Muslim localities make special breads during Ramzan, to be eaten with milk for sehri. Big bowls containing salan (non-veg curry) with pieces of chapatti mixed in it are part of the pre-dawn meal of Muslim families in Delhi and Lucknow.

The iftar meal is the one to which believers look forward; preparing which women in the families spend their afternoons. Except dates which find a mention in Islamic history (it is believed that prophet Mohammad used to break his fast with dates) and are common in iftar meals across the world, rest of the delicacies eaten for sehri and iftar are influenced by a given region or state’s history, culture and cuisine (read the accompanying stories).

Fruits and smoothies such as Baebri Boel (a popular drink in Kashmir) are consumed primarily for their nutritional value while snacks such as unnakaya (Kerala), haleem (Hyderabad) and bhajiya (Kolkata) reflect the Indian fondness for all things spicy.