Bhubaneswar’s mesmerising Lingaraj!
H aving landed at Bhubaneshwar, our local friend asked us if we would like to visit the Lingaraj Temple. To arouse our interest, he said, “Prime Minister Narendra Modi was there this morning.” We had never heard of the temple but just said, “Okay, let’s go.”
Five minutes later, we found ourselves standing in front of a magnificent temple structure built in the 11th century. Step by step as we proceeded towards the sanctum sanctorum. We were taken to a number of small temples within the premises. There were 99 temples. It was physically impossible to see them all. There were paandas (priests) at every step who blatantly asked for dakshina (offering) and tried their
TULSI LEAVES , BANANAS, KUMKUM, FLOWERS, MILK, CASH AND MORE … THERE IS NO END TO THE OFFERINGS BEING MADE, BUT THE OFFERING THAT THE LORD SEEKS FROM US IS JUST A PURE HEART
best to invoke our interest by making all sorts of tall claims. I found their unabashed demand for money, strange and annoying. So we just took darshan at a few of the temples and proceeded to the sanctum sanctorum.
I would have thought that as the name suggests, it would be a Shiva temple but was astonished to know that here the Shaligram which is Swayambhu (self-originated) is worshipped as both Lord Shiva and Lord Vishnu!
Resultantly, it is a Hari-Har temple. The temple structure was completely mesmerising. It was made of dark red sandstone and its spire stood 55 metres tall and was predominant in the skyline of Bhubaneshwar. We entered through the ‘Simha Dwar’ (the lion gate) as instructed by our guide. The temple built in the Kalinga style of architecture, was a visual treat. It was divided into four structures, the Garbha Griha, the Yajna Shala, the BhogMandap and the Natya Shala.
The temple flag or dhwaja was fixed on a pinak (bow) placed at the top of the shikhar of the Garbha Griha. Usually, atop a Shiva Temple is a trishul; atop a Vishnu temple is a Sudarshan Chakra. Here, both deities being present, a pinak (bow) was perched on top. It was common for both deities.
The devotion in the hearts of Indians never fails to inspire me. In the name of devotion and religious fervour, there is no limit to the extent that we can go. But at the end of it all, all the Lord asks for from us is a pure heart full of love and devotion. Isn’t it?
Tulsi leaves and bilva leaves, coconuts and bananas, turmeric and kumkum, flowers and milk, cash and kind … there was no end to the offerings being made, but the offering that the Lord seeks from us, we all know is nothing more than a pure heart. Amid the huge congregation of Shaivites and Vaishnavites, amid the perspiring bare-chested men and headcovered saree-clad women, amid the fragrance of ghee lamps and camphor, amid the odour of human sweat and rotting flowers, amid the chanting of Jai Lingaraj! Jai Narayanaya! Jai Hari-har Nath! I found myself oblivious to all except the presence of the Lord and us. As I clutched my husband’s arm tighter, among the thronging and jostling of the crowd, we smiled at each other as time stood still. Here we were in the presence of the King of the 12 Jyotirlingams (Linga-Raj)!
How else could we have landed here, had He not called us? It was as if He had taken us by the hand and led us to His abode. Strange are the ways of men but stranger are the ways of God! priyatandon65@gmail.com n The writer is a Chandigarhbased freelance contributor