How Covid-19 scaled Mt Everest
Limited testing and violation of protocol have led to an ‘outbreak’ on the world’s highest peak
There’s a storm brewing in the Himalayas, and it’s not the usual kind. After nearly a year of no climbs, just a few in early winter, and now a return of climbers from around the world, three things have started to happen. Nepal’s Department of Tourism has given out hundreds of permits, eager for a return to business as usual. Cases of Covid-19 have begun to dot the trails, including the first recorded cases on Mt Everest. And climbers, who have paid upwards of ₹25 lakh for their chance to summit, are waiting it out despite the risk, because there’s been no announcement that permits will be honoured at a later date if they leave.
The final touch: The only Covid testing being done at the base camps is informal, conducted by doctors accompanying larger expeditions, and almost all these tests are of the relatively unreliable rapid antigen variety.
While international climbers are required to take the more reliable RT-PCR test on arrival in Kathmandu, this protocol isn’t followed uniformly. And there is no protocol for the testing of the Nepali staff who accompany climbing teams. This means that Covid-positive climbers and staff are mingling with others at the base camps, as well as making their way from camp to camp, kitchen to kitchen, and from one mountain to another.
Among those caught in this perfect storm were Keval Kakka from Mumbai and Bhagwan Chawale from Pune. They arrived in the mountains in March and watched as things grew steadily worse. In April, they were among 70 climbers to summit Annapurna I, the first mountain to be attempted in the spring season (and incidentally the tenth-highest in the world).
The plan had been to attempt multiple summits but amid the rising cases and bad weather, Kakka, a 30-year-old professional mountaineer and trekking guide, gave up and returned home, saying it felt unsafe. Chawale, a 38-year-old officer with the Life Insurance Corporation (LIC), waits on.
In Kathmandu, meanwhile, lockdown was enforced once again earlier this month, with about 8,000 new cases reported every day. In the mountains, Covid-positive climbers and Sherpas have had to be airlifted mid-climb and put on ventilators. And the climbing community is abuzz with the news of what’s being called an “outbreak” on Everest. (Again, there are no numbers available to quantify the spread because there is no organised testing at the base camps).
“Only the teams that had come with their own doctor and testing kits are able to conduct tests,” says Harshvardhan Joshi, 25, a mountaineer from Mumbai, who finally summited Everest on May 23. “Anxiety was rife. It felt like we were sitting on a Covid time-bomb.” He remained on the mountain nonetheless, he adds, because he’d invested years of training and ₹55 lakh in the expedition, and the government showed no signs of extending existing permits.
Frozen freeways
The lack of testing has taken climbers from around the world by surprise. Kakka and Chawale say they first became concerned when no tests were conducted as they and about 15 others made their way from Annapurna to the Dhaulagiri base camp in April end.
The first symptoms of Covid-19 at Dhaulagiri surfaced in a team of Sherpas who had spent time together at Tatopani, a village en route the Annapurna I base camp, adds Kakka. (The two mountains are in close proximity; Dhaulagiri is the seventhhighest mountain in the world; incidentally, the Himalayas are home to 9 of the world’s 14 highest peaks).
Spanish mountaineer Carlos Soria Fontan’s team had brought a few rapid antigen kits, and it was they who started testing people at the Dhaulagiri base camp. “About 50 people tested positive, of the 80 present. They were short on kits but more were made available by their agency,” says Kakka.
Worse, he adds, there were no precautions being taken. “Four or five Sherpas were sharing tents, when there’s no need to do so at base camp. Those who had tested positive were walking around and touching things in the kitchen. Supplies coming in by helicopter were not sanitised or sterilised. And while evacuating people from base camp, they were putting the healthy ones with those who had tested positive, saying the latter had mild symptoms.”
Between the shortage of manpower after key members of the rope-fixing team tested positive, and heavy snow dumps and avalanche conditions, most abandoned their climb on Dhaulagiri. Kakka, who was to also climb Makalu, the fifth-highest mountain in the world, decided to drop all plans and return to Mumbai.
He is fortunate that he could — there is still a weekly flight operating from Kathmandu to Delhi. All other international flights have been cancelled until May 31. Some mountaineers are trying to charter private planes instead. “It’s not worth risking your life there. I just didn’t feel safe,” Kakka says.
The climbing season ends on May 29.