The craft of success
The handloom industry represents the richness and diversity of Indian culture. A little modernization will keep it going forever
Kota saris are gorgeous ethnic contributions to the fashion world. Thanks to their exquisite designs and patterns, they are globally recognised. These saris originally had their roots in Mysore. In ancient times, the weavers of Mysore took this kind of sari to Rajasthan, and over time, they became popular as Masuria Malmal, Kota-Masuria, Kota cotton and Kota doria.
The uniqueness of the fabric comes from the mix of silk, which provides the shine, and cotton, which provides strength. The checked pattern is known as ‘khat’ and is one of the distinguishing features of the Kota doria fabric, which is very finely woven and almost weightless.
“THE UNIQUENESS OF KOTA COMES FROM THE MIX OF SILK, WHICH PROVIDES THE SHINE, AND COTTON, WHICH PROVIDES STRENGTH” —RINA DHAKA
Backbone of India
India’s handloom industry demonstrates the richness and diversity of Indian culture, thanks to the artistry of the country’s weavers. With more than 4.3 million people directly
and indirectly involved in production, the handloom industry is the second-largest employment provider for the rural population in India after agriculture.
Indian handloom industry products are known for their unique designs and finesse. The trend is to mix old designs with new techniques and create original products.
The handloom industry is really the backbone of India’s fashion industry; a major link in the garment industry’s chain. With my experience of two-and-a-half decades as a pioneer in India’s fashion industry, and also as a founder member of the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI), I have some suggestions that could grow the handloom industry to new heights.
1. We must provide our artisans with the ability to build capacity;
2. We must teach them about digitalisation and technology adoption;
3. Together with the two suggestions I have made above, we must help them to create the branding and positioning of their products and services;
4. And finally, we must connect them with global markets.
Onward and upward
Handloom artisans usually climb the market ladder from government bazaars to domestic handloom fairs to international markets. This model exists and can be reinvented and made on par with the way we live and work these days. Delhi’s Dilli Haat is a fine example to replicate or modernise, for instance.
Aesthetically-made films aired on prime channels can create value-based tourism to support the craft of handlooms. The handlooms sector can also be promoted via social media and other social activities. For example, in the past, for a programme on Fox Traveller, I shot Lucknow and its crafts, making it a destination for TV shows about style and the city.
We need to continue our focus on handlooms to help them progress. Better executed collections and fine edits on good pricing can be made for it to be rejigged or overhauled. By giving handlooms a modern perspective, we will ensure that younger generations will continue to buy them.
Happy handloom day!
One of the first Indian fashion designers to pioneer avant-garde in the late 80s, Rina Dhaka has been in the space for over three decades. She has clothed the likes of Naomi Campbell, Uma Thurman, among others.
“THE HANDLOOM INDUSTRY IS REALLY THE BACKBONE OF INDIA'S FASHION INDUSTRY"
–RINA DHAKA