When monsoon was a festival in Delhi
As soon as rain drops would touch the ground, filling the city’s air with the infectious smell of the soil, sweet meat shops in Old Delhi would start frying fresh ‘andarsas’, attracting customers of all ages and hues. It was the time for celebration, picnics, swings, songs and feast.
It was the time when Delhi had a monsoon culture. It was the time when people would wait for the rain for not just getting rid of the torrid Delhi heat. It was the time when people did not associate monsoon with just waterlogging, potholes and traffic jams.
In the ’80s and early ’90s, the city used to welcome rain and used to soak in the spirit of monsoon festivity.
Old timers reminisce that rains were the best time to explore the city and its serene landscape.
Mridula Garg, renowned author, says people would go to the Walled city area to relish a host of savouries such as bedmi pooris and jalebis. Evening baithaks (cultural get-togethers) were also organised, she says.
Sohail Hashmi, writer, filmmaker, and history buff, says during this time of the year, city dwellers would set out on family outings to mango orchards on the outskirts near Mehrauli, exactly where the Chhattarpur Metro Station is located now.
“These mango orchards were set up by the grandfather of the last Mughal emperor Bahadur Shah Zafar. There used to be two villages — Amrayyian and Andheria. Families would stuff themselves in tongas with home-cooked food and head to mango orchards where they would spend the whole day enjoying the weather,” Hashmi says.
Amrayyian village does not exist any more and Andheria is now known for its plush farmhouses where luxurious wedding are organised. Andheria Mor is one of the major and busy intersections today for those travelling between Delhi and Gurgaon.
“When the Delhi Development Authority (DDA) started taking over land in the city in 1960s, farmhouses were carved out from these villages. Consequently, mango orchards vanished and so did the culture associated with them with the onset of urbanization around 70s,” says Hashmi.
Monuments in and around New Delhi such as Lodi Garden, India Gate lawns, Purana Qila used to turn picnic spots.
“Women used to set up swings on trees and play. Hari mirch-keemey ka salan with Besani paranthe used to be the speciality of the season after which we would feast upon freshly plucked mangoes. Around the season, when Purvaiya (easterly wind) wind started, a regatta was organised by the Delhi Boat Club on the river bank near Okhla Water Works,” says Hashmi.
Garg, a recipient of Sahitya Akademi award, says that the Sangeet Natak Akademi or Bharatiya Kala Parishad used to hold musical evenings and baithaks to welcome monsoon. “We lived in Bengali Market and used to visit Chandni Chowk to relish bedmi poori, gulab jamun and jalebi with family and friends when it rained,” she says.
Garg, who graduated from Miranda House College in 1957, says even classes for suspended to let students enjoy the weather. “It was different in those days. As soon as the classes were suspended, we used to head straight to Delhi University’s coffee home to relish pakoras and coffee,” she says.
Shammi Narang, actor and former Doordarshan (DD) news reader, recalls the chana-bhatura from a small kiosk on Bahadur Shah Zafar (BSZ) Marg, opposite National Herald office.
“I was a student of Andhra Society School, Rouse Avenue (now Deen Dayal Uphayay Marg). After skipping classes, we would have chana-bhatura and gulab jamun with a bottle of Coca Cola at the shop on BSZ Marg. It would cost us Re 1 only,” he says.