Sky watching in Paharganj

An evening rendezvous with the heavens

No matter which city you live in, you can always find an opportunity to get away from it all without actually leaving the city. Case in point in our own Delhi: You’ll feel as though you escaped into outer space when comfortably on the roof of Ajay Guest House in Paharganj’s Main Bazaar.

This evening the sky feels too close, atop this four-storey hotel, while the setting sun looks like a lamp you could lightly hold in your hands.

The Paharganj district itself has long been a favourite for backpackers; and some hostelries have cafes on their rooftops to serve these hungry travellers.

Ajay doesn’t have one, and that’s a good thing, since here you’re now far from the madding crowd. Nevertheless the roof is decked with flowerpots and tables and chairs, and offers an interesting view of domestic terraces.

Over there, an elderly woman sits on a chair picking rice. Another rooftop sees a man in baniyan (vest) and shorts doing pushups while listening to Hindi film music. Some distance away a young woman is peering out of window, looking absorbed in thoughts. Behind her soars a roof that is home to a crowded pigeon shed.

This is a Paharganj that you can never experience from the street-level.

Peering straight down, you’ll capture a bird’s eye view of Main Bazaar’s street. It’s always maddeningly noisy, but up here, you’ll hardly hear a sound.

And when you’ve had enough of these sights, just curl up on the chair with the book of the day.

And now the sun is fast dipping behind the Paharganj houses.

On climbing down, it is noise and chaos once again, making the rooftop feel infinitely remote.

The hotel has a cafe downstairs but the friendly waiters will let you ascend to the rooftop, even if you’re not ordering anything.