A slice of Assam history along border of England and Wales
CHEPSTOW:This quiet, relaxed town at the confluence of rivers Wye and Severn is the unlikely home of a unique garment produced more than 450 years ago in colonial Calcutta with an inner fabric lining identified with the 16th century Assamese saint, Sankardeva.
Assam is over 8000 km away from here, but its sights, sounds and history have been attracting many at an exhibition titled “Hidden in the Lining: Krishna in the Garden of Assam” in the Chepstow Museum near the Wales-England border, particularly the garment lined inside with the ancient “Vrindavani Vastra” fabric.
The art of weaving Vrindavani Vastra associated with Sankardeva is extinct in Assam; few examples survive in collections around the world. The British Museum in London has a large example of 12 pieces sewn together, sourced from Tibet in the early 20th century.
The dimensions of the fabric were large, depicted tales mainly from Lord Krishna’s life, and included some verses of the iconic saint in ancient Assamese alphabets. It was produced under Sankardeva’s supervision and were once used as wall hangings in “satras” (monasteries).
But the use of the fabric as the lining of a garment (“banyan”) is unique. The garment was part of a Welsh family’s collection that was purchased by the Chepstow Rural Distinct Council in 1963. Its history and importance was only recently recognised.
“We feel very privileged to be the custodians of this beautiful gown and its precious woven lining that has so much meaning and importance,” Anne Rainsbury, curator of Chepstow Museum, told HT.
Experts believe that the garment was likely produced in colonial Calcutta. Assam is close to Calcutta and in the 18th century Chinese products were traded there for local use and onward transport to Europe.
It is most probably at Calcutta that the Chinese bluegreen damask silk was put together with the Vrindavani Vastra inner lining.
The garment has been carefully preserved in the museum over the decades, using temperature control and soft folds.
“We hope that people will come not just to the exhibition, but to the series of events we have planned, and find out more not just about the textile, but Assamese culture, and links between India and Wales,” Rainsbury said.