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I The temple run
Cambodia’s Angkor Wat complex houses structural masterpieces that are intact even 1,000 years later
t’s 5am, and the traffic has already started coiling towards the iconic sunrise at the Angkor Wat temple complex. The journey begins in Siem Reap, a small town that serves as the gateway to Cambodian temples. Aboard on our tuk tuk (a threewheeled motorbike taxi), we ride several kilometeres into a dense jungle that hides and shelters the UNESCO world heritage site. Surrounded by a moat on both sides, this restored 12th-century temple is seen as the zenith of Khmer architecture, and represents Cambodia itself for tourists. We were speechless as the sun rises behind the five lotus-like towers of the sandstone temple. As water bodies in front of the temple create a perfect mirror that enhances the first light of the day, we are glad to have ticked off the ethereal experience from our bucket list.
THE MAIN ACT
We’d opted for a three-day pass ($62; about `4,000) for the Angkor Wat Archaeological Complex. That gave us access to dozens of temple ruins spanning more than 400km. Between the 8th and 13th centuries, several Hindu and Buddhist kings created these temples in stone in Siem Reap, which used to be the capital of the Khmer kingdom.
The three-tiered pyramidal temple is best enjoyed at a slow pace. The galleries are filled with inscriptions and display a multitude of apsaras (angels) on the walls. The climb towards the highest temple is quite steep, perhaps mimicking the ascent of a great mountain. Gazing out the windows from the top, we took of a glimpse of the vast horizon, which had hot-air balloons floating in the distance. The temple must have been truly majestic in its heyday.
Interestingly, the entrances of most of the temples are adorned with statues depicting the Samudra Manthan or the churning of the ocean, which is a mythological story mentioned in several Hindu epics such as Mahabharata and the Puranas. The walls often feature writings in Sanskrit and Pali, and bear stark resemblance to the temple architecture found back home in India. The apsara dancer is another intriguing figure, who finds a mention in almost every temple wall in Angkor Wat.
IN AND ABOUT
The key points in the complex are Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom, and both are surrounded by artificial lakes. To the east and west of the temples are two major, man-made waterways called East and West Baray. Scattered around these are various other temples. Tuktuks, the best way to get around the park, take two routes. On day one, we took the small circuit tour, which started at Angkor Wat and ran roughly 17km, covering other temples such Ta Phrohm, Angkor Thom, Baphoun, Phimenakas, Preah Ngok Shrine, Terrace of The Leper King and Bayon. It took about half-a-day to cover the relics. On another day, we took the grand circuit tour, which started at Angkor Wat, before covering Preah Rup, Ta Som, and Preah Khan. It spanned about 26kms around the complex. Even after spending hours at each of these ruins, clicking pictures and getting to know the history, we found our tuk tuk driver eagerly waiting for us to visit the next stop.
ARCHITECTURAL MARVELS
What caught our eye was that each temple has been taken up for restorations by the archaeological departments of various countries. The Archaeological Survey of india (ASI) has taken up a 13th century temple named Ta Prohm, which has been swallowed up by a jungle. This Buddhist temple was built by Cambodian king Jayavarman VII around 1181 CE, and it even finds a mention in the Tomb Raider movie. The temple has been engulfed by root formations, the most popular of which is the one on the inside of the eastern gopura (entrance pavilion), nicknamed Crocodile Tree. Another highlight of our tour was the Bayon temple, which is known for the huge stone faces of the Buddha, with each facing outward to keep watch in every direction. Some locals also believe it to be a portrait of King Jayavarman VII.
NIGHT OUT
While our days were spend trying to capture the old spirit of Cambodia, in the evenings, we headed to the main town to witness modern day culture. Local spices, fresh produce, crispy fried tarantulas, and meats ranging from octopus to chicken feet create a bizarre foodie circus at the Angkor Night Market. Pub Street is the official party hub in the temple town. After a long temple touring day, most tourists wind up in these lanes.
THE ARCHAEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF INDIA (ASI) HAS TAKEN UP A 13TH CENTURY TEMPLE NAMED TA PROHM, WHICH HAS BEEN SWALLOWED UP BY A JUNGLE.