Hindustan Times (Lucknow)

179 YEARS ON Nawabiera kitchen to serve only memories!

Instead of preparing traditiona­l ‘tabarrukh’ during Moharram, trust decides to award contract to caterer

- HT Oliver Fredrick n Oliver.fredrick@hindustant­imes.com

LUCKNOW: In a break from tradition, as old as 179 years, the grand Nawabi-era kitchen on the premises of Chhota Imambada will not serve ‘meals and memories’ this Moharram.

Instead the ‘hygienic tabarrukh’ for the devotees, which include both the poor and the royals, will be supplied by a sophistica­ted caterer to be hired especially for the purpose.

Believed to be establishe­d by Mohammad Ali Shah, the third king of Oudh and founder of Hussainaba­d and Allied Trust (HAT), the kitchen is famous for feeding hundreds of Muslim devotees who assemble at historic Imambada for 10-day long Muharram ritual.

But the earthy smell of burning wood used as fuel to cook food will be missing this time.

And so will be the sight of over half a dozen cooks preparing khameeri roti, sheermaal, dal fried and potato (curry) on cauldrons.

Interestin­gly, a few cooks were roped in to prepare the food exclusivel­y for royal families.

“There used to be the special menu of bakarkhwan­i (traditiona­l bread), special sized khameeri roti and curry for them,” claimed an official from Hussainaba­d and Allied Trust.

“It will be for the first time in the history that no food will be cooked at the royal cookhouse that was establishe­d for the purpose,” said a trader from the area, a regular to majlis.

Dubbing the move as more of interferen­ce in religious matters and less of modernizat­ion, a septuagena­rian from Old City said, “It is not about food but of sentiments and traditions. No one has the right to change it.”

“But the trust seems least bothered in keeping a check on such unwarrante­d interferen­ces,” said another Old City resident while reminiscin­g the good old memories when the royal kitchen used to abuzz with activities ahead of Muharram.

“I still remember the times when the trust officials used to start dumping tons of ration at the kitchen to prepare food for hundreds and thousands of mourners.”

Trust custodian, district magistrate Kaushal Raj Sharma, says the decision to hire a third party is aimed at ensuring quality food distributi­on.

“There were some complaints regarding food quality and hence the decision,” he added.

 ?? DEEPAK GUPTA/HT PHOTO ?? The kitchen at Chhota Imambada.
DEEPAK GUPTA/HT PHOTO The kitchen at Chhota Imambada.

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