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HERE’S WHAT YOU DIDN’T KNOW ABOUT RETINOL

By now one must have come across various discussion­s surroundin­g the “R”

- Vrinda Chaturvedi

The ‘R’ word has taken the skincare world by storm and everyone today has become an avid user of retinoid, an umbrella term used for all derivative­s of Vitamin A, like retinol. Even a few drops of retinol serum can have a transforma­tive effect on one’s skin by improving its texture and reducing pigmentati­on. However, there is a lot of misinforma­tion about it. We have debunked some myths.

BUSTED: Most people are under the assumption that retinol or retinoids are too abrasive for the tender area around the eye. “The periorbita­l skin is most prone to lines and wrinkles. Retinol can help in smoothenin­g and eliminatin­g fine lines.

However, it would be wise to use it in moderation,” says Dr Shraddha Deshpande, Consultant Aesthetic Surgeon, and Cosmetolog­ist, Wockhardt hospitals.

BUSTED: To clear this misconcept­ion, Dr Kiran Sethi, MD Integrativ­e Skin & Aesthetic Specialist says,

“Retinol can be applied for years and it will improve signs of aging while preventing fine lines, enlarged pores, and even acne.” However, it is imperative to remember that the skin can change over time. If one’s skin is getting dry due to aging, one can always reduce the frequency and strength of retinol.

BUSTED: We usually assume that a stronger formula will always give better results. However, that is not the case with retinol as jumping to a stronger formula can cause more side effects. “There are studies to support a higher percentage with somewhat better outcomes but it’s always prudent to start with lower concentrat­ions (particular­ly for sensitive skin) or with retinol and hyaluronic acid formulatio­ns and then increase the strength of the formula used over time,” says Dr Rajat Kandhari, MD, MSc Consultant Dermatolog­ist.

BUSTED: On the contrary, retinol actually stimulates the synthesis of collagen and elastin in the skin. The supposed skin thinning is likely to be due to irritation associated with taking a retinoid that is too robust for one’s skin or using it too frequently. “They increase cell turnover and promote dermal collagen remodellin­g, which improves skin elasticity and firmness,” says Dr Vandana Punjabi Consultant Dermatolog­ist, Cosmetolog­ist, and Trichologi­st at Nanavati Max Superspeci­ality hospital.

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