Hindustan Times ST (Jaipur) - Hindustan Times (Jaipur) - City
FRENCH CUISINE: INDIAN GOURMAND’S NEWFOUND LOVE
French cuisine has found new fans in its transformed state, which is less ‘fairytale’ and more relatable, enjoyable and fun
At the Met Gala held recently, American actor Blake Lively (right) adorned a gold, embellished Versace gown with a blue feathered train, which she paired with Lorraine Schwartz’s 130 carats of sapphire accessories, including an 82 carat pair of Burma earrings and a 50-carat triple sapphire ring. The actor also wore a 50-carat diamond ring, reports people.com. Lively, who is known for her role as Serena Van der Woodsen in the television drama Gossip Girl, and films like The Shallows and Age of Adaline, has questioned herself in the past as to why she chooses to wear ensembles with the extended piece when she struggles walking up stairs. “I love a train but then when I get on these stairs, I’m like, ‘Why am I wearing a train?’” she said.
Afew years ago, French food in India either meant massively sauced steaks and blotchy macarons served by local cafes, or ostentatiously priced, strictly non-vegetarian food, served in celebratory restaurants. The cuisine has come a long way since then. There are serious connoisseurs of French cuisine, and restuarants have evolved to put together wholesome experiences. Chefs are making persistent efforts to popularise French cuisine. But making Indians fall in love with French food wasn’t easy. “India is not a breadeating country, (at least leavened breads), and the same goes for cheese and wine. So, it took a while for French to become popular,” says chef Prem K Pogakula of The Imperial. Indians found French food too ‘cerebral and celebratory’, and therefore, intimidating. “Complex presentations, too much fanfare and high prices often prevented people from trying it. Limited knowledge of wines that pair with French food also became an obstacle,” says chef Bobby Jacob, The Lalit New Delhi. The absence of fusion dishes also put off many. While Italian and Chinese cuisines had their ‘Indianised’ versions, fusion wasn’t a possibility with French. “French cuisine is a form of art. An Indian spin would have made it lose its authenticity. Therefore, we tried spreading knowledge of French instead of attempting fusion,” says chef Jacob.
NO MORE FAIRYTALE
Chefs adopted an anti-elitist, informal approach. Myths that French food is about fatladen dishes and strange looking snails were debunked. “There’s nothing mind boggling about French. We often cook French at home unknowingly. When you make a steak with black pepper, it’s French. People are realising that French is one of the simplest cuisine in the world,” says Naina Du Bois Juzan, consultant, Le Bistro Du Parc. Simpler menus and precise translations have made the food relatable.
LIGHTER APPROACH
Inspired by global trends, chefs replaced heavily sauced dishes and overpowering marinades with refreshing, aesthetically plated dishes. Old world preparations took as long as two days to prefect. Now the focus is on quick dishes. “Simple dishes such as a steak with salad, quiches made with leftover cheese, or fish in court boullion (short broth), served with a quick lemon pepper sauce are quite popular,” says Juzan.
GREEN OPTIONS
The presence of vegetarian options on the menu is also creating new fans. “Vegetarian/vegan French restaurants are doing well in Paris. We, too, have many green options such as Eggplant Spinach Rouleau (eggplant rolls stuffed with cheese and spinach) and Ratatouille Niçoise (medley of squash vegetables) on our menu now,” says chef Pogakula. Chef Bobby says that simple green dishes such as Carrot and Ricotta Quiche (A savoury filled with carrot, ricotta and custard) and Cauliflower au Gratin(creamy cauliflower sprinkled with breadcrumbs and grated cheese) are popular.
GOING SLOW
The trend of eating seasonal, locally sourced food has also helped the cuisine grow. “In France, you eat local products — fresh cream, butter, and cheeses made in your region, vegetables from your garden, eggs from the neighbour’s chicken coop and bread from the village bakery. The growth of slow food movement in India has popularised French cuisine,” says chef Pogakula.