ENCHANTING ISLES

Red Fishermens’ Cottages, Green Hills And Blue Fjords Combine To Create A Piece Of Perfection

drive the 160 km from Fiskebøl in the northeast to Å in the southwest in half a day. Most of the habitation is along the south coast, in the shelter of the Vestfjord. ‘I live in Paradise’ stated Jann Engstad, a Lofotvar who runs Lofotin Aktiv, a company that specialises in kayaking and hiking. It’s a paradise worth fighting for, and like most other locals, he’s strongly opposed to plans of extracting billions of dollars worth of oil from the shores. He gave us the lay of the land as he drove us from Svolvaer, the main town, to Å at the western end, stopping en route at Kabelvag, Henningsvaer, Uttakleiv and Haukland (rated amongst the best beaches in Europe), and at Ramberg, Reine and Moskenes. Time and again, we’d stop to take in vistas of the endearingly small villages, to try specialties like lefser (sweet cream pancakes) and fish burghers, and to pop into art galleries, museums and a very special resurrected Viking longhouse.

DOWN A FJORD AND UP A MOUNTAIN

Elizabeth Lund came from Oslo, fell in love with the Lofotens and moved here three years ago, wanting to spend her life in the most beautiful part of her country. Together, we sailed down Trollfjord, a dramatically long narrow water body flanked by tall, granite hills on both sides. It was a cloudy day and we were freezing in snowsuits, which she jokingly called the ‘Lofot Bunad’, the National costume. Along the way, we caught pollock fish, which the boat’s crew used to bait the majestic white tailed eagles. The next day was warm and intensely clear as we clambered up Tjeldbergtind, a mountain with sensational views of the silvery calm ocean, hinter lakes and an army of sharp-toothed mountains. Their fierce, arrowhead-shaped peaks belied the walking-friendly trails filled with purple heather, pink fireweed flowers and edible berries as far as the eye could see. geetikaglobetrot@googlemail. com WHERE TO STAY: Nyvågar Rorbuhotel, set in the quiet surrounds of a creek and a rocky outcrop, this stylish hotel is a short drive to restaurants in the charming village of Kavelvåg, 15 minutes drive from Svolvaer airport. +47 7606 7900 Svinoya Rorbuer is perched on a small island, 10 minutes walk from Svolvaer town, it has an atmospheric restaurant and a sprinkling of rorbu cottages, and the modern ones with big glass windows and balconies let in beautiful views. Svinoya.no +4776069930

Anker Brygge is a warm, cozy hotel in Svolaer with a handful of rorbu cottages and a charming restaurant. Anker-brygge.no +4776066480

THINGS TO DO: Hike the mountains, paddle in the fjords in a kayak, bike the islands, drive to scenic vistas, take a boat excursion to the Trollfjord.

Lit up fish-drying racks in the winter Nyvågar Rorbuhotel on the winter

A map showing the Lofoten Islands