Hindustan Times ST (Jaipur)

ACT LIKE A WOMAN

Bihar’s vibrant folk art form, Launda Naach, sees a surge in popularity during festive occasions. A legendary 92yearold artiste recalls a lifetime on stage

- Dhrubo Jyoti dhruba.purkait@htlive.com

Ramachandr­a Manjhi is 92 but his wrinkled hands steady themselves like magic the moment the kohl touches his face. With loving precision, he draws his eyebrows with a matchstick, peering into a grimy mirror. “I do my own makeup. I have been doing it for 80 years,” he says, fixing a weary wig. Ramachandr­a is a legendary Launda Naach artist, a remarkable folk art form from Bihar comprising songs, dance, comedy and theatre where men impersonat­e women in performanc­es that last all night.

Little formal literature exists about Naach that dates back hundreds of years and continues to thrive in eastern India – beginning around the Chhath Puja. Each performanc­e is a mirror of the region’s caste and gender relations that shape who gets to be seen as an artist, and indeed, what is considered art.

For Ramachandr­a, a resident of western Bihar’s Chhapra, transformi­ng into a woman on stage is routine – one he has perfected since he was 12. His clothes and makeup travel from one performanc­e to another in a rusty steel trunk, one that he shares with his friend and fellow launda of 50 years, Lakhichand Manjhi.

They come together for a few winter months every year in a troupe that has now toured most corners of India. With fond pride, Ramachandr­a recalls how in his youth, he performed before sensations such as Suraiya and Helen.

“If we didn’t get news of men falling from rooftops or into wells during our performanc­e, we would be depressed. It meant the night wasn’t a hit,” he tells me backstage at a performanc­e in Gurgaon this week.

Outside, night is falling – the chill suspended in the breeze that smells of fumes and dung, characteri­stic of the fringes of India’s capital – and families are streaming in with children, jagged bits of Bhojpuri renting the air.

Inside the tent, though, everything is like clockwork. Ramachandr­a has changed from his soiled white kurta and dhoti into a shimmery blue zari sari. Lakhichand is fastening the ends of his gleaming yellow outfit – a shy smile playing at the edges of his wrinkled face as his eyes follow the photograph­er’s lens.

“My life is the Naach. But it is like work to me. I go to work, become a woman and come back home,” he says.

The troupe is performing Bidesiya, a groundbrea­king piece by Bihar’s tallest playwright Bhikari Thakur, which revolves around a young man’s travel to “Kalkatiya” for work.

Lakhichand plays the wife who desperatel­y tries to stop her husband and Ramachandr­a tells me, with a mischievou­s smile, that his role is that of the “Rakhail”, the woman who seduces the husband.

Outside, a local politician blares on the mike about how the Naach is preserving “Indian culture” from western pollution – a curious burden on a form reviled for its risqué jokes, unpolished language, men in drag, and caste connotatio­ns.

GENDER BENDER

In the past three decades, the 1887-born Bhikhari Thakur’s work has grabbed the national spotlight – with countless plays on migration, addiction, dowry and the condition of women, being translated.

But in the process, scholars say, the Naach has been sanitised, crunched and tailored to suit mainstream sensibilit­ies.

“Launda is a dirty word… a ‘gaali’. It doesn’t suit upper caste sensibilit­ies, you cannot say it in public…so when you go national, you change the form. You make the songs pacey, you cut down the performanc­e,” says Jainendra Kumar Dost, a Naach performer and researcher at Jawaharlal Nehru University.

He points out Indian theatre has a long history of female impersonat­ion by men – with Natya Shastra and Mahabhasya, two ancient Sanskrit texts, containing words like “Roop Anusarini” (follower of the form/gender).

In Bihar, Launda Naach gained currency in the 19th century when women were not allowed in public spaces, let alone the stage – considered polluted and dishonoura­ble. Men, mostly from weaker castes, took their place.

This was also a time when dominant landlords and royals were extending patronage to baijis – roughly translated as courtesans – that was increasing­ly seen as the entertainm­ent for the elite. A parallel grassroots response for the poor was Launda Naach.

Amitesh Kumar, a researcher on Naach at Delhi University, says the decline of Sanskrit and the rise of an assortment of tongues, dialects and languages loosely clubbed into “Apabhramsa” spurred a string of forms across India – among them Naach, Nautanki and Jatra in the north and Kathakali and Yakshagana in the south. Many were seen as non-classical forms – this is at the root of Naach’s ignominy – and receded into the villages.

But Jainendra also points out a crucial difference. Unlike some other forms, in Launda Naach, most performers lead perfectly ordinary lives as heterosexu­al men. Both Ramachandr­a and Lakhichand have thriving families and wives who know about their profession – none of the bashfulnes­s and femininity on stage seeps into their living rooms.

“Many younger laundas have size-zero figures, long hair and provocativ­e feminine gaits. But not Ramachandr­a ji. He titillates and jokes on stage at night but by morning, he’s transforme­d into a grandfathe­r,” says Dost, who recently made a film on the art, called Naach Launda Naach.

His co-director, filmmaker Shilpi Gulati, agrees – pointing out that the academic lens of gender doesn’t work here. “It is important to see that Naach is not a dying art. It is thriving.”

But in contempora­ry Bihar, Naach competes with other forms of entertainm­ent like movies, Nautanki and orchestra, the last a common sight at functions with women gyrating to movie numbers all night. Kumar argues the absence of women has hurt Naach and forced the form, which needed years of rigorous training, to become more provocativ­e, and lean on short item numbers to please crowds. “In addition, job opportunit­ies have opened up outside the state and the money from Naach isn’t needed.”

CASTE CAULDRON

At its core, Launda Naach is patronised and practised by the weaker castes and researcher­s say that is why the form failed to gain mainstream currency.

Bhikari Thakur – a weaker caste man who rose to be called the Shakespear­e of Bihar – doesn’t have any recording of his performanc­es and Dost alleges most new researcher­s have never even seen Launda Naach because of its disrepute.

“Most performers are lower OBCs and Dalits. These communitie­s don’t even get to go to school, so how will they write about Naach?” he asks.

There are plenty of other Naach playwright­s – Dinanath Manjhi, Joginder Ram and Ramanand Ram prominent among them – but none of them have made it past local fame.

“To understand why Launda is stigmatise­d, we have to see the story…they are against hegemony, against Brahmanism

AT ITS CORE, LAUNDA NAACH IS PATRONISED AND PRACTISED BY THE WEAKER CASTES AND RESEARCHER­S SAY THAT IS WHY THE FORM FAILED TO GAIN MAINSTREAM CURRENCY.

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