Hindustan Times ST (Mumbai) - Brunch
MEET ASIA’S BEST CHEF
The only word my brain can convince my mouth to pronounce is ‘wow!’ My daughter Akanksha and I are at Odette in Singapore, Asia’s No. 1 restaurant, about to lunch with the three Michelin star restaurant’s chef-owner, Julien Royer. The doors to the restaurant are impressive; but so is the ambience inside, all tender tones and novel art, the perfect portrayal of Julien’s French DNA.
I have been lucky to have already had a meal cooked by Julien in Delhi when he visited briefly to do a pop-up. The experience filled me with awe, so a meal at the French restaurant when travelling to Singapore was mandatory. Add a chat with the chef over lunch at Odette, and you could say I was on cloud nine.
It’s fair to say that Julien Royer and Odette have had a good year. In 2019, Odette has bagged his third Michelin star and picked up Asia’s No 1 at the World’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards sponsored by S. Pellegrino & Acqua Panna, owned and run by William Reed Business Media; six years after it received a ‘one to watch out for’ nomination by the same awards organisation, aka the World’s 50 Best. The Singapore restaurant also won Restaurant of the Year and
Old Wine List of the Year at the World Gourmet Awards 2019, held in April in conjunction with 2019’s world gourmet summit. These awards are organised by Peter Knipp holdings and supported by Singapore tourism board.
Julien’s love of cooking was evident quite early in his childhood. “My grandmother was a fantastic cook. She was the one who inspired me to become a chef,” he recalls. “One of the most nostalgic things for me in the world is her redcurrant jam. I remember the long, slow simmering, the addition of vanilla and juniper berries, and how it would make the whole house smell so amazing. She taught me about respecting produce, about approaching cooking in a simple fashion, and how to elevate each ingredient like a piece of art. We built everything at Odette around her; the restaurant is a tribute to her and her philosophy.”
His career has taken him to the French West Indies, Polynesia, London and Singapore. In 2015 Julien left Jaan, which is located at Swissotel The Stamford, Singapore. After working there for four years as head chef. He was awarded rising chef of the year by the World Gourmet Summits Awards of Excellence in 2012 and in 2014 he bagged chef of the year and Jaan restaurant of the year by the same organisation. With Julien at helm it was a modern French restaurant. Today, it’s run by chef Kirk Westaway and is called Jaan by Kirk Westaway who is Royer’s former sous chef.
“One of my early mentors, chef Michel Bras, instilled in me a
GRANDMA OF ALL RESTAURANTS
“WE NEVER KNOW WHEN A MICHELIN INSPECTOR WILL DROP BY, BUT WE ENSURE WE ARE AT THE TOP OF OUR GAME EVERY DAY”
His restaurant in Singapore displaced Gaggan as Asia’s #1 restaurant earlier this year. And just last month, Odette earned its third Michelin star. Here’s what makes chef Julien Royer tick.
deep respect for the integrity and purity of each ingredient in every dish,” he shares. Julien’s dream is very clear: great food, outstanding service, rare wines, and an effervescent and elegant ambience. “It’s part of the experience of being here,” he says with a smile.
“ON MY FIRST VISITTOMUMBAI, I WENT TO SWATI SNACKS. THERE WAS AN AMAZING DIVERSITY OF FLAVOURS!”
DRAMA AT THE TABLE
Julien is known not only for the flavours in his cooking, but also for his plating style. This can be an enormous challenge because it means having to reinvent the menu continuously, but it makes for an extremely thrilling experience for those who eat there. His signature dishes include rosemary smoked organic eggs, heirloom beetroot variation, Hokkaido Uni, Kegani crab and the mushroom tea, but his own favourite dish is the Kampot crusted pigeon.
“It’s the perfect embodiment of amazing ingredients elevated to another level,” he explains. The way the dish is presented adds a little drama to the meal, but more significantly, you get to see Julien at your table. It’s this kind of exposure that shows that Odette is very exceptional indeed.
FLAVOURS OF INDIA
Travel is essential for food creativity, Julien believes. And he is very impressed by the heritage of Indian cuisines. “I have been to Mumbai twice and I was very impressed by the vegetarian food. Delhi was a short visit for a pop up. I have yet to try a lot of Indian cuisine, but I love biryani and anything cooked in a tandoor.
“On my first visit to Mumbai, I was taken to a place called Swati Snacks. There was such an amazing diversity of flavours!” he exclaims.
He’s modest about what he’s learned on his trips to India. “I learned that I still have a lot to learn!” he says. “That includes techniques, ingredients and culinary history.”
FRUIT OF THE EARTH
For Julien, the restaurant is continually evolving, but he’s pleased with where it is now. “We only use produce that is in season simply because it makes culinary sense,” he says. “Our menu revolves on this principle and we have not shifted from it. Our suppliers are always keen to introduce us to produce as soon as it comes to its peak, and we work with them closely to improve our understanding of it,” he says.
What would tomorrow’s food look like? “I love that vegetables are taking centre stage,” he says. “I have always believed that vegetables should not be viewed as just an accompaniment, but as an equal to any protein.”
“I LOVE THAT VEGETABLES ARE TAKING CENTER STAGE. I HAVE ALWAYS BELIEVED THAT VEGGIES SHOULD NOT BE VIEWED AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT, BUT AS AN EQUAL TO ANY PROTEIN.”
DEALING WITH A MICHELIN-STAR INSPECTOR?
“We never know when an inspector will drop by, but we ensure we are at the top of our game every day, every service, so we’re confident about putting our best foot forward when they do visit”.