Hindustan Times ST (Mumbai)

Why market for plant-based meat is imploding

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When plant-based meat substitute­s started to make its way to the shelves, the US was thought of as a natural market. But data shows that the market for it is beginning to implode there. This appears counter-intuitive, especially considerin­g the rise of flexitaria­ns—those who consume meat but are also open to plant-based options for health or environmen­tal reasons. On looking deeper, a story rooted in economics emerges.

The surprise surroundin­g this slowdown stems from the initial promise. Plant-based meat was seen as a gateway for meat-eaters to dabble in vegetarian­ism by offering the familiar taste and texture of meat without the ethical concerns associated with animal agricultur­e. However, the high price point of these alternativ­es compared to traditiona­l meat products has proven to be its Achilles heel. Turns out consumers, even in developed markets with a flexitaria­n mindset, are often unwilling to pay a hefty premium for a plant-based burger when a comparably priced meat option sits right next to it.

From Silicon Valley’s perspectiv­e then, India appeared to be a much more promising market for plant-based meat alternativ­es. With a large and establishe­d vegetarian population—estimates suggest over 40% of Indians identify as vegetarian—there seems to be a ready-made audience for meat substitute­s without eating the meat itself.

But Shashikant Shetty, a Mumbai-based restaurate­ur is among those unwilling to buy this argument. When the idea was first pitched to him some time ago, he tried it out in his kitchen. “The kheema tasted great because we used a lot of masala. We used it in our Chinese menu as well to make Manchurian. And while the replicas to chicken nuggets were good, it was not quite the same as chicken. I’d have thought of using it for my vegetarian guests as an alternativ­e to paneer and mushroom.”

But turned out, plant-based meat alternativ­es are more expensive than paneer. This price disparity is even more stark when compared to another popular protein source in India such as mutton. This leaves plant-based alternativ­es caught in a tight squeeze—too expensive to compete with vegetarian staples and not cost-effective as compared to premium meat options.

The real champion in this affordabil­ity battle, however, is chicken. It’s the most widely consumed meat in India, and its price point is significan­tly lower than plant-based alternativ­es and mutton. In fact, boneless chicken and paneer cost Rs 250 per kilo in Mumbai, points out Shetty. This cost advantage makes chicken the go-to protein source for many Indians, especially those looking for a meaty indulgence.

For health-conscious vegetarian­s who feel their families are not getting enough protein, whey powder has made its way into Indian homes. Then there are those who have accepted eggs as well. Given this establishe­d culinary landscape, it appears plant-based meat alternativ­es will have it tough in India as well, considerin­g the significan­t price disadvanta­ge they currently carry. At the time of writing this, questions sent earlier to entities in the space hadn’t come in.

On an altogether different note, advancemen­ts in technology could offer a solution. Lab-grown meat, though in its early stages of developmen­t, presents a potentiall­y revolution­ary approach. This technology involves cultivatin­g meat from animal cells in a controlled environmen­t, eliminatin­g the need for animal slaughter. If the economics of synthetic meat production turns out to be viable, it might be a game-changer. “This is something I am watching and will invest into when commercial­ly viable,” says Vikram Varma, of Raw ‘n Ruckus, a Mumbai-based agritech and foodtech entreprene­ur.

It could cater to meat-eaters concerned about animal welfare and environmen­tal impact, without forcing them to completely give up meat. Unlike plant-based alternativ­es, synthetic meat could potentiall­y replicate the taste and texture of real meat more closely, offering a more familiar and appealing option for consumers.

At the end of the day, while environmen­tal concerns are gaining traction, especially among younger generation­s, the economic realities cannot be ignored. The market needs to see significan­t price drops. And the potential of lab-grown meat offers a glimpse into a future where both environmen­tal and economic considerat­ions can be addressed, potentiall­y paving the way for a more sustainabl­e and ethical protein source for India and the world.

THE HIGH PRICE POINT OF THESE ALTERNATIV­ES HAS PROVEN TO BE ITS ACHILLES HEEL

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