KUMAON CAPERS
Through the path of tranquillity leading to spirituality — a trip to the hills can recharge your mind, body and soul
Moonlight disappears down the hills, Mountains vanish into fog, And I vanish into poetry – A Thousand Flamingos
Be it the soul of a poet or the tired mind and body of a city dweller, hills can reinvigorate and inspire all in a moment. The soothing expanse of green, the fresh air and the rhythm in life in hills can make you forget all the drudgery and dreariness.
One such beautiful rendition of nature is Almora in the Kumaon region of Uttarakhand. Devoid of the familiar colonial influence in other hill stations, this place has preserved its rustic charm quite effortlessly.
En route to Almora from Kathgodam, lies Neem Karoli Kainchi Dham, a temple that is dedicated to Lord Hanuman. Though established in 1962 by sage Poornanand of Kainchi village for the devotees to stay in the ashram and practice meditation, the place has been getting a lot of attention since Facebook CEO Mark Zuckerberg revealed that this was the place that Apple’s founder late Steve Jobs advised him to visit when the former’s company was going through a rough patch.
Rightly called the Land of Gods, this is a region where rivers flow with clear divine waters, hills are covered with pine, oaks and rhododendrons, and the numerous spots and legends make for a journey as splendid as the destination.
One such exceptionally picturesque drive takes you to Chitai Golu Devta Temple (52km from Kainchi Dham). It was built during the 12th century and is characterised by countless bells hanging in the premises. Dedicated to Golu Devta, an incarnation of Lord Shiva, he is believed to fulfil every wish made with a clear conscience. People convey their wishes or problems to the deity by writing them on a paper and tying them around the temple premises.
And, as they say, legends and hills are inseparable; you would be intrigued to see many stamp papers hanging around with details of litigations. Once their wishes have been fulfilled, people come back and tie a bell as a token of appreciation to Golu Devta. The locals say that even those who fail to get justice in the court of law come here to seek justice and are rarely disappointed.
You won’t be either when you end the day in Almora watching one of the most beautiful sunsets from your hotel’s window or balcony, savouring the Kumauni food made with the most simple yet the freshest ingredients, the Sun, meanwhile, lending the tall pines indescribable shades of red and orange.
The region is replete with the wonders of the nature that you would be in for a sweet surprise when on your way to Jageshwar Dham the next day. Hardly 16 km. from Almora, a signboard by the Archaeological Survey of India, would capture you attention. Lakhudiyar, meaning ‘one lakh caves’, is home to many painted cave shelters once inhabited by cavemen. Acknowledged as the best in terms of illustrated scenes and activities of the primitive men in this region, colours of